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T O P I C    R E V I E W
n/a Posted - 02/18/2012 : 19:40:27

I got all my old and new remote parts together today. Milled my balsa and almost ready to glue and bag it on the team Ti-Boy bike.

This is my high tech method of figuring out the handlebar pivot.
Aerospace tools such duct tape, ruler and pencil are required.

- Tape a ruler to the fork clamp, support it with a small tube, tape it in place with duct tape.
- Sit on the bike, spin the pedals, place the handlebar on the ruler and extend the arms until the handlebar nearly touches the legs.
- Mark the ruler with pencil to determine handlebar pivot point.
- Make a carboard template to use as a guide for cutting a balsa shape for the remote post.
25   L A T E S T    R E P L I E S    (Newest First)
n/a Posted - 03/28/2012 : 05:56:36
Tony,
A Pinhead locking skewer.

quote:
Originally posted by alevand

Alan, What are you using for the front skewer, it looks like a carriage bolt?

C:
Tony Levand

alevand Posted - 03/28/2012 : 05:12:35
Alan, What are you using for the front skewer, it looks like a carriage bolt?

C:
Tony Levand
n/a Posted - 03/27/2012 : 21:07:28
Mika,
This little device is easy to make and will improve your chain line efficiency. Give it a try on your M5 if want a smooth return line.

Mill a piece of balsa or foam slightly wider than the chain. Wrap it in carbon fiber, compress it, cure it and cut it to size. Attach some adhesive backed UHMW slick strip on the inside.

mhelander Posted - 03/27/2012 : 12:09:03
Alan, I have to say I'm impressed ! This is cleanest chainline in any NoCom I've seen so far.

Also steering setup looks tight and something I need to try myself.

What comes to steerability because of chain, my M5 lowracer has chain much nearer to 451 wheel than NoCom. Of course chain rubs when turning, still no real problems even riding it winter with Maxxis DTH tire.

Cheers,
-Mika

MetaPhysic 700c @ 2011, M5 CrMo Lowracer @ 2010
n/a Posted - 03/27/2012 : 11:26:04
Tony,
The chain line is 1.3 cm closer to the centerline of the frame than with a production NoCom fork. Will not be an issue for training rides or a TT course. The tight chain line will only be an issue for slow speed turning. I do not recommend doing this tight of a chain line on a touring bike.

Also note the return chain line being as close to the idler as possible. I now have a thin carbon fiber chain guide instead of the milled UHMW guide. The side plates of the idler have also been modified to prevent the chain from traveling up the side plates and jamming.

alevand Posted - 03/27/2012 : 09:20:12
Hi Alan, looks great. How far can you turn the front wheel before it rubs too much on the chain, do you ever have problems making right turns? I'm guessing the wheel base is about 60 inches.

C:
Tony Levand
n/a Posted - 03/27/2012 : 08:47:34
The high rez image showing steering rod placement.
I lowered the rod to allow brake lever clearance and avoid any binding of the rod end bearings.

Note the black plastic covering the frame opening of the adjustable BB. The plastic is from a microwave bowl shaped with a heat gun to match the frame surface

warren Posted - 03/26/2012 : 17:25:52
Looks ready to ride! This week?
Speedbiker Posted - 03/26/2012 : 14:59:38
Very nice. Now we see your training secret, pointing the bike straight up to simulate riding supersonic speeds.
n/a Posted - 03/26/2012 : 12:11:38
Finally got the frame and remote steering dialed in. Unlike HPV expert claims that remote is non aero the photos show remote steering can be quite narrow, aero and clean.

Next on the agenda will be setting up the tailfairing.



n/a Posted - 03/19/2012 : 18:01:53
quote:
Originally posted by alevand

How do you keep your knees from rubbing on the rod end? Maybe your Q is wider than my narrow BB? I put my rod on the chain side and offset the steering pivot to one side.

C:
Tony Levand



Good suggestion Tony. If my knee touches the rod end bearing I'll flip it to the right side. At present the outside edge of the bearing is 39 mm from the frame centerline.
alevand Posted - 03/19/2012 : 12:10:12
How do you keep your knees from rubbing on the rod end? Maybe your Q is wider than my narrow BB? I put my rod on the chain side and offset the steering pivot to one side.

C:
Tony Levand
n/a Posted - 03/19/2012 : 10:56:13
quote:
Originally posted by Speedbiker

you please post a pic of your whole bike from the right side


Thom,
I'll post a photo of the complete bike in a few days. Just have to finish it first. BTW, I found a excellent way to make a cable housing guide that attaches to the frame. I will explain once I post the final setup. Allowed me to set up the front brake cable rather easy instead of bonding on or drilling into the frame.
n/a Posted - 03/19/2012 : 10:49:32
Tom,
I did not make the clamp. Its from the previous bike. I cut the height in half to lower it and one bolt is all I need. When used with a compression plug I can not twist it no matter how much force I apply.

Warrens fork clamp will work just the same and easy to make if you can braze.
If it was not for Warrens detail instructions on remote I'd never have been able to make one.



http://www.recumbents.com/wisil/remotesteering/default.htm
tom porter Posted - 03/19/2012 : 07:46:21
Alan, one more question about the fork steerer clamp. What size is the chunk of aluminum you started with I take it you machined it yourself. Did you take any photos of the fabrication of it? Looks very nice.

O---o
Speedbiker Posted - 03/18/2012 : 22:05:35
Alan, my tiller setup places my hands almost just like yours. Maybe a little lower. My extensions go downward from the short handlebar, not up. The angle is similar to yours to get the leverage. It is a very fast setup that I plan to duplicaten my NoCom. Could you please post a pic of your whole bike from the right side?
n/a Posted - 03/18/2012 : 20:15:36
Tom,
You can go real narrow with remote. Give it a try.

Check out the handlebar width to the NoCom tiller handlebar. At the beginning of this project HPV experts told me that remote was not aero. Can not figure that one out as my hands are tucked in between my knees and the bar cons are only an inch above the NoCom tiller. I'll be punching a smaller hole in the air with remote compared to tiller.


tom porter Posted - 03/17/2012 : 12:54:04
Beautiful job as always Alan. I'm think I'm going to do a CF lowracer ala Kragasaur's CF sleeves over birch plywood. Remote steer would be the best option.

O---o
n/a Posted - 03/16/2012 : 15:37:37
Getting close to finishing the bike. Still have cut the remote rod to length, install cables, front derailleur, cycle computer and rear disc. The handle bar width will be reduced after a few rides. Amazing how light this bike is compared to the frames I modified in the past.

The remote post uses only 2 bolts screwed into tapped aluminum discs press fit into the handlebar tube. With the aluminum discs the 2 bolts needed are short length compared to long length bolts I have used in the past. On a previous remote assembly I used a thick wall aluminum tube stuffed with carbon fiber and epoxy resin which was quite heavy. The current assembly is a much better and lighter solution.



n/a Posted - 03/15/2012 : 23:28:47
quote:
Originally posted by sean costin

Alan,
Did you narrow those Rotor cranks?

Sean



The RCs are 155 double.
n/a Posted - 03/15/2012 : 23:20:31
Fun times in Clampville tonight.
sean costin Posted - 03/13/2012 : 18:57:40
Alan,
Did you narrow those Rotor cranks?

Sean
n/a Posted - 03/12/2012 : 13:14:11
Have not attached the new post as I am setting up the cranks.

While setting up the RotorCranks that Don Smith turbocharged I noticed the front derailleur post was sticking out too far right to shift onto the small ring. No problemo with a quick hacksaw mod.

I made a bolt on offset derailleur post extnesion, lined it up on the post and chopped off the top half with my trusty hacksaw. This mod places the dreailleur in the perfect spot for shifting to the small ring.

The BB fore and aft adjustment on this bike is way cool! I can set the BB in place by very small increments by either sliding of tilting the bottom bracket plates. I will never have to adjust my BB length using wood stop blocks and plumbers putty again. yeehaa!!




Speedbiker Posted - 03/07/2012 : 21:03:24
That's disturbing.
warren Posted - 03/07/2012 : 19:12:07
Thom, I made a mold for a swoopy one several years ago but it ended up looking a bit obscene.

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