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 Carbon mold/tool for lower&upper enclosed velo

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carolina Posted - 05/15/2014 : 12:24:23
How l started. My airplane molds (BD-5) l own are used for cf velomobile unibody. Ideas/conversations are welcome: march-7-2015 [This past MAY has been 2 years].

My molds favor this shape:

Rear cowling will look like this photo below, my velo at rear is 5" wider: plus i have a rear bulkhead like the WAW velomobile.

brevity&misspelling rampant
25   L A T E S T    R E P L I E S    (Newest First)
carolina Posted - 07/16/2018 : 10:49:56
Ed miller and l riding around: good vid


carolina Posted - 07/15/2018 : 10:43:10
Rear cowling in yellow single stage now, matching mirrors from netherlands. Travis will paint top next week.

Top next week then lower unibody.


carolina Posted - 07/14/2018 : 11:44:52
More duratec on front wheel wells yesterday, now roll rotisserie over to chair position for wet sanding and buffing.


carolina Posted - 07/11/2018 : 19:10:02

1 (black#) has whooped me couple days, made in posterboard, then bent metal @ airport. Metal piece 1 is a plug that i will pull mold from. 1,2,3 become 1 piece rear bulkhead and keeps all elements out and becomes stronger. Red 4, & 5 #’s are the rear wheel wells. New part from mold takes 12 screws.

This aluminum plug with wood on it, then filled a lil’ with bondo later tonight. This plug should hold its shape clieco’ed in position. Then tomorrow will prep other side with duratec an polish, then pull a lil’ one piece mold from it. Put the wood on with U-428 from DOW chemical and used their dow primer too.

Finished spraying 3 coats of duratec grey, wet sanded to 1500. Now buff and pull mold is next step.


carolina Posted - 07/08/2018 : 16:16:49

Couple more layups inside plug that mold to top of wheel wells;

Ready to wet sand and buff, finish a few more thoughts first:

This is a plug for the 3 wheeler: “rear wheel well”

Brevity & misspellings rampant:

carolina Posted - 07/02/2018 : 10:44:43
Now 2 good coats of duratec on. Now fine filling and light sanding. I use sikkens kombi putty.

If ya had big money you could get plug cut on cnc. Speed up big time.

carolina Posted - 06/30/2018 : 01:41:48
Your mama! Paddys pub , really nice last night. Gotta have a break sometimes. Lots of pretty girls.

carolina Posted - 06/27/2018 : 21:12:47
Filling & sanding, filling and sanding , filling and sanding ,filling and sanding ,filling and sanding ,filling and sanding, filling and sanding: Notha week, could be starting a 3 piece mold.
I brush on filler (duratec and ever coat feather fill) first few dry sandings. I put black pigment in sometimes so i can see flaws. Then get out spray gun, then wet sand. Try to get to 1500/200 then makes buffing easy. After buffing wash with hot soapy water and rinse. Then TR mold release hand wax/ebay. Plugs & molds are rewarding.


carolina Posted - 06/22/2018 : 21:04:41
Plug movement everyday, YAY,, micro (glass spheres) and compositeenvisions dot com medium epoxy. Yard work/house work, ebay fenders/sold 2. Had a window Blocked up in my house. Located color of paint for doctors velo, probably travis will paint in week or so. Ral-1023 yellow. Changed frt window in velo to petg and took out makrolon. Looks like petg will take a licking and keep kicking. Makrolon will not. I say always use 0.30 even at lil higher cost or haf to order it.


carolina Posted - 06/17/2018 : 19:21:40
Short vid: big plug for 3 part mold. Heavenly!


carolina Posted - 06/17/2018 : 12:27:01
Warren: put hardware back in this morning and found more adjustments to make. Thats the way it is always. Keep hunting and making all fixtures and hardpoints best. Mr oxindine taught me sheet metal here 9 months on rv-4. He had taught me this and many other techniques. Dividers, and calipers, seemstress soft measure tapes really help amateur categories.

Also this guy is great for simple techniques,,,subscribe and follow/hit the bell:


carolina Posted - 06/16/2018 : 20:59:31
Thanks, moved lil further along with both WW’s today. Getting short on micro-balloons/order monday.
1) have light grey ever coat
2) have quart of dark grey duratec coming
3) confidence in my spray painting is great.

Really happy with sprayed front wheel wells in big orange lower mold.
Don’t use 2k primer on molds for restore. Use only duratec products and that ever coat light grey is from the same polyester family. Always epoxy over polyester, never polyester resin over epoxy. So u see most big molds are polyester/orange tooling gel is the poly family. Your part is carbon and epoxy resin. 2K primer is from neither family. Duratec products with pva or mclube and your part want stick.
If one can make a plug they want, the rest is dow hill.

warren Posted - 06/16/2018 : 12:48:26
Looking good!
carolina Posted - 06/16/2018 : 06:25:01
Working my way up on each wheel well:


carolina Posted - 06/15/2018 : 13:26:32
Got a thick first coat on of duratec on front two wheel wells to preserve them for many more unibodies. Already did rear bulkhead.


carolina Posted - 06/15/2018 : 10:44:45
What you may or may not like about making plugs with no cnc. Lots of body work. Upol bondo and finishing glaze and sikkens kombi putty. (Ebay or local). Belly ready for duratec, then up in top of WW’s/wheel wells.

Getting to where i can spray good enough for amateur. This is a plug, not a mold and not a part.


carolina Posted - 06/12/2018 : 17:24:41
Stopped today and built in this inch top flange, “tilted” in bondo rear plate there in photo below. Flange holds the back of rear cover between wheel wells. Bondo with carbon layed inside the flange. I use polyester resin on plugs since only used one time,, (dry in 2 hours so i can start another area).

Globs of bondo and sanding, i use steel files on bondo too and profile gage some areas.

This plug will make a 3 piece mold, this back vertical plate will be the 3rd piece. Other 2 pieces split on belly plate, splitting the two wheel wells in haf. But whole part will be one piece. Clear duratec used as gel coat. Wax and pva as the release of part.

Inside of WW’s will be clean and protected by duratec since this is male mold. No deterioration in WW’s by weather, dirt,etc..

carolina Posted - 06/11/2018 : 09:56:59
Tons of boring filling and sanding for couple weeks or more. Get back soon. Prepping lower unibody mold for another unibody too.

Layers and layers of bondo on these two bottom panels, then sand all off flat. Layering cab-o-sil and epoxy inside wheel wells each day and sanding.


carolina Posted - 06/08/2018 : 15:17:22
Another mod in floor:


carolina Posted - 06/05/2018 : 15:54:24
Plug shaping started. Using different heads. Porting tool heads and woodwork sanding heads from MDI.


carolina Posted - 06/01/2018 : 21:18:55
Masking for grey duratec, all the middle will be grey and polished like rear bulkhead. Lil’ more dry-sanding tomorrow. Then pic a time to spray few coats outside.

Carbon WW’s will go in rear of unibody:

carolina Posted - 06/01/2018 : 11:40:08
Originally posted by carolina

One hard thing to learn is: dow u-428 and carbon fiber, i never understood the strength of both till l worked with both many moons and you will not either. I’ve seen honeycomb, wood,foam,aluminum,soric, sandwiched between carbon,, it’s not needed in our world of recumbents and unibodies. Twill, uni, and biaxial carbon is all that’s needed. You want to stay light, you understand that velomobiels are flimsy in certain areas and are suppose to be. One thing that is sandwiched between carbon fiber is INNEGRA. Keeps carbon fiber from exploding from car bumber, tree, etc..

The original was tiny, aluminum, and hard to get a wrench down there with airbag installed. I wanta make as many aluminum parts from carbon fiber as i can in my shop. Saves huge time ,gas, and money. No other machine or welding shop needed. Ala Daniel Fenn.

Brevity & misspellings rampant:


carolina Posted - 05/31/2018 : 16:31:34
Once fitted you can scribe the mold and never hunt drill holes or trim lines again. I run all trim lines with hack-saw. No heat and easy, then dry sand. Hit round part with small barrel sander.

Heres a carbon one, 4 layers of 11 ounce twill. The L & R vertical sides are angled outward. Base is 90 degrees to WW.

————————— 20700

carolina Posted - 05/29/2018 : 19:18:18
Temporary white plastic things did the job and made the seated mold for the bracket. Well, iam making the 2 brackets out of carbon twill in shop. Much better and lighter that aluminum. It would cost to get two made and custom welded (&haf to wait couple days). Lessons from the great Daniel Fenn. Two outside pieces are tilted out. Part will look good, pop out easy, and weigh less with carbon.

Wet sand & polish tomorrow:

This is Duratec grey used in composite mold industry. Check out youtubes. The inside of WW’s will be duratec polished after many moons of bondo & sanding. This lil mold is square school room floor tile & bondo sanded. The thick coat of duratec brushed on. Wet-sand and dremel polish a lil’. I put scrap fglass on back of this lil mold to make it last forever strong. Duratec grey polishes to 80%, look like million dollars. For real fine finishing, spray last coat and add duratec thinner and duratec hi-gloss additive. I can sand that with 1200/1500/2000. Buffs incredible. This mold looses on both sides, the glossy side will never be seen. And this side will be carbon. But if you need a gloss part, I’ve had great luck with duratec products.

Made test : fglass/8 ounce/twill/7 layers. This one will be quick polyester resin.

PVA poly vinyl alcohol peels off.


carolina Posted - 05/28/2018 : 15:50:08
Built in the last L&R hardpoints in the Wheel wells. I used white plastic angles with tr & pva release. These are air-bag top mounts. I can make thes from aluminum or build a lil mold to make them with carbon.

White plastic will become trash soon.

Now i haf to make the ww plug look like this below. Then pull a male mold. Iam using male mold and not female wheel well mold like below. And mine are one 2 piece mold that bolts together.

Bondo & sanding, then coats of duratec & polish.


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