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Matthew Martin Posted - 09/19/2017 : 20:42:30
Hi, I am a high school student who has been interested in the concept of streamliners and their construction. The question that has been bothering me is not knowing how to attach a windscreen (canopy;plastic view port) to a fiberglass fairing almost seamlessly without the use of tape. I have been working tirelessly on a cad model of a bike that I hope to build. The bike is a somewhat practical streamliner that is high enough to be moderately visible in traffic. I need to be able to attach a large vacuumed formed windscreen to go with my design.As I don't know how to insert my image ( not online so no url) my windscreen needs to be similar to the velotilt
25   L A T E S T    R E P L I E S    (Newest First)
warren Posted - 02/23/2018 : 08:01:32
I may have missed this but why is there so much space between the seat back and the rear wheel? Storage? Batteries? Dog seat? Taller riders?

Also you are adding some triangulation to those rear stays, right? Those butt welds will fail eventually.
Matthew Martin Posted - 02/22/2018 : 20:30:33
Thanks for the suggestions, however I have already purchased the rod ends from mcmaster carr. Anyway I plan to finish the steering soon, but here is a better pic of what I have done.

nickyfitz Posted - 02/20/2018 : 13:55:35
Great progress Matthew. Looking good!

FWIW I have built my remote steering linkages using tie rod bearings from IGUS. They are a German company but seems they have a US distributor. They do lots of other good stuff too :-)


I'm not saying they're any better than what others have suggested, but they are high quality and do save a few grams. Thought they might be of interest to you or others, especially when you get to the phase where you want to shave off every excess gram from the bike!
alevand Posted - 02/20/2018 : 06:34:47
Its huge!(as a quote from the incumbent). Looks almost ready for a coast down the driveway. I use linkage for remote steering. Weldable tube ends are available from Mc Master carr. I use 5/16 fine thread nuts and grind the corners off so the fit part way into the tube, then weld them on, one left and one right hand thread. Links should be as close to perpendicular to the steering axis as practical, if not then its best to have the angles be equal between link, steering axis and remote axis. The rod ends only have +/- 11 degrees swivel, but much less when fastened . I use the plain steel ones, they have more swivel than the lined ones, brass or ptfe. They work fine, a drop of oil now and then. I grind the retaining nut into a cone shape to get more swivel. You can get a little more out steering of the swivel if the rod end attachment bisects the angle and not exactly parallel with the steering axi.


Tony Levand
Speedbiker Posted - 02/20/2018 : 03:39:48
It looks great, Matthew. Keep up the good work and continued development.
Matthew Martin Posted - 02/19/2018 : 19:17:05
I have decided to mount the seat in another way, so when I make a fiberglass seat later on , so I can use the same mounts.

This is going to be the part that the steerer will mount to.

Part of the mount

completed bottom mount

I took a cool long exposure shot

Wheels on

Making the top mount

I designed the seat myself in cad and made templates to make the final.

I did not put much effort into this seat I just wanted to get the seat over with.


I also put some details into the new shape
alevand Posted - 02/04/2018 : 19:00:53
Coyote drive train:

Tony Levand
alevand Posted - 02/01/2018 : 18:44:31
I use hose clamps. I cut a piece about 3 in length of tubing that fits a little more than half way around the main tube, this is welded to the seat frame in front.

Tony Levand
Matthew Martin Posted - 02/01/2018 : 18:31:45
I have been wondering... What is the best way to mount a seat to a recumbent. I want to start with a ply wood seat, and make my own fiberglass seat later on. I need it to be low profile so the bottom of the seat is close to the main tube that it is mounted to.
Matthew Martin Posted - 01/31/2018 : 18:41:25
you are not wrong...its massive. comes in at about 9 ft long. I also grinded down my welds on the dropouts and went back over them, being careful not to blow through the tubing
alevand Posted - 01/31/2018 : 18:19:26
They look strong enough. The bike looks really long, I think my carp was 79 inch wheel base. It had the steer tube sticking out of the fairing. Maybe I m just use to looking at my SWB bike.

Tony Levand
Matthew Martin Posted - 01/31/2018 : 15:13:32
I am not concerned with how the weld looks right now. I will look into mig gas later but for now I just want a strong weld. before painting I will smoothen the welds with bondo to make the frame look "seamless" after being painted.
alevand Posted - 01/31/2018 : 14:03:25
Its hard to get pretty welds with a flux core welder. I used one for years. Got gas shielding, whole new world, easier and prettier welds.

Tony Levand
Speedbiker Posted - 01/31/2018 : 11:09:41
Looks great Matthew. Remember, when welding a thicker piece of steel to a thinner piece you need to turn up your heat and wire. Then as you weld, spend more time on the thick part than the thin as you big zag back and forth. So grind off that cold weld and weld back over it.
If you have a weld situation you are sure of, set up a practice piece and get your technique and welder figured out.
Keep up the terrific work!
Matthew Martin Posted - 01/30/2018 : 19:14:44
I have done some more work and installed the head tube and dropouts.
I have the make the steering assembly which will mount to the frame using a tube clamp. I have all the parts except the seat and seat mounts, and the miscellaneous parts I have yet to make.

I began by cutting the dropouts

Grinding them flush using a threaded rod to line them up.

I then tapped the hole for the derailleur mount

I then began work on the head tube. Here it is tacked in place.

Welding the head tube

I then lined the wheels up using 2x4s (Super Straight!) and clamped the wheels in. I then lined everything up by measuring the distance from the wheel to each side. I then tacked everything up.

Dropouts welded. welds were a little cold.

My first recumbent frame which was a dual 700c mid racer/low racer, next to the current frame. It was a mbb.

warren Posted - 01/26/2018 : 07:41:23
That looks very cool!
Speedbiker Posted - 01/24/2018 : 23:04:36
Great work Matthew. Keep it up.
Matthew Martin Posted - 01/24/2018 : 20:35:16
Hey guys , I know it has been a while since the last post, and I have made some progress. To start I have built most of the frame. I designed this initially, and Mr.Thom (speedbiker), recomendend some final changes before building the bike. I used 1.5x.065 wall tube for the bug tubes and 1.25in tubing for the rear stays and one inch tube at the bottom.I am currently making the dropouts. I already have the head tube cut and ready to be welded. I also ordered the wheels, tires, rod ends(remote steering), fork, stems and bearings for the remote steering.

Here are a few pitures

I designed the bike in CAD first

I used tube templates to get the notching

finished notch

tubes cut

I used string to check alignment and tacked in place. If anything was out of alignment I tapped it into place with a mallet.

Where I am at now

I have also been working on the shape I have reduced the frontal area to .4858 m^2 and the Cd to .08 which give a Cda value of .039m^2. I will most likely make more changes right up until I build the plug. The shape is inspired by the Taurus streamliner

I have also scraped the 1500$ budget and have increased it to 3000$. I will shoot for under this of course. To help with the fund I started a GoFundMe. One of the major costs in the resin needed to make the molds. I need more than I anticipated, but it is necessary to learn the mold techniques that I want to learn.
My link:

The renders on that page will be updated shortly as I only recently changed the shape.
carolina Posted - 12/14/2017 : 23:50:53

Speedy Posted - 12/14/2017 : 21:34:55
Female molds made with CNC machining works well and is a great time saver.
Female molds done by hand is just about the most difficult approach possible.

Your hard earned experience may vary.

carolina Posted - 12/14/2017 : 17:32:42
Female molds: re read post above i wrote another paragraph.

Oh yea, definitely female molds with your two profile gage. Once you have L & R joggle and the way u want it spray the styrene duratec and then duratec grey primer. Sand and buff. Your in bizz.

CALL FIBERGLAST.COM , TALK TO EM, TELL EM WHAT YOUR DOING. THEY WILL GIVE YOU SOME GREAT FINAL TIPS TOO. You will own the molds and make one side per day. This process is alot easier, think it out. You can get your shape down, you have pc and knowhow. I just free hand with profile gages and blocking down duratec.

Maybe these members will chime in about lwb or lowracer. I sure dont know, even though I built a lowracer l like and mod’ing the boom soon.

Matthew Martin Posted - 12/14/2017 : 17:21:22
So what you are saying Carolina...correct me if I am wrong, is to start with the female molds and just make layups from that, as opposed to making a male plug and getting the molds off of that?

My plan (general)
1. build up a steel frame lwb bike
2. build a coroplast mock up fairing for my bike and test the shape.
3. If it works as it is intended, start the build a male plug
4. make female molds from plug.
5.lay up final fairing
6. mount fairing to bike.
7.create plastic oven
8. form my windows
9. assemble
10. electronics(lights brakes,Etc.)
carolina Posted - 12/14/2017 : 15:21:28
Matthew: what warren wrote two shells make 1 shell/fairing. Over a bicycle.

What i wrote, has not been done. It makes two quick molds (L & R) very simple. Then lay carbon & innegra in both and pop out and trim next day. Warren stated how to mount shells faring to the recumbent 2 wheeler.

Ask em which steers best on track, lwb or lowracer.

What is your shell or cover of your race bike made out of???

Give a simple listing of what u are doing. There are no short cuts. Maybe some techniques that pay you back somehow or save money.


Then members can chime in. They know what u are building.

Man, if you had couple blocks of boat dock foam, can of each duratec product, lil’ ebow power equals 2 quick L & R molds. Spray the 2 duratec’s on, start sanding 24 hours later. Then buff. Layup left side after dinner, lol yes!! Right side next night.

Speedbiker Posted - 12/14/2017 : 10:38:49
Warren, good job managing the forum.

I believe young Matthew will do quite well. And what a future!
alevand Posted - 12/14/2017 : 10:38:27

There are some bike part cad files available online, that can just be plunked into the model assembly, without having to make them from scratch:


Tony Levand

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