www.recumbents.com
www.recumbents.com
www.recumbents.com
Home | Profile | Register | Active Topics | Members | Search | FAQ
 All Forums
 www.recumbents.com
 Technical / Bike Building
 Streamliner Fairing Construction and Design

Note: You must be registered in order to post a reply.
To register, click here. Registration is FREE!

Screensize:
UserName:
Password:
Format Mode:
Format: BoldItalicizedUnderlineStrikethrough Align LeftCenteredAlign Right Horizontal Rule Insert HyperlinkInsert EmailInsert Image Insert CodeInsert QuoteInsert List
Videos: Google videoYoutubeFlash movie Quicktime movieWindows Media videoReal Video
   
Message:

* HTML is OFF
* Forum Code is ON
Smilies
Smile [:)] Big Smile [:D] Cool [8D] Blush [:I]
Tongue [:P] Evil [):] Wink [;)] Clown [:o)]
Black Eye [B)] Eight Ball [8] Frown [:(] Shy [8)]
Shocked [:0] Angry [:(!] Dead [xx(] Sleepy [|)]
Kisses [:X] Approve [^] Disapprove [V] Question [?]

 
   

T O P I C    R E V I E W
Matthew Martin Posted - 09/19/2017 : 20:42:30
Hi, I am a high school student who has been interested in the concept of streamliners and their construction. The question that has been bothering me is not knowing how to attach a windscreen (canopy;plastic view port) to a fiberglass fairing almost seamlessly without the use of tape. I have been working tirelessly on a cad model of a bike that I hope to build. The bike is a somewhat practical streamliner that is high enough to be moderately visible in traffic. I need to be able to attach a large vacuumed formed windscreen to go with my design.As I don't know how to insert my image ( not online so no url) my windscreen needs to be similar to the velotilt
25   L A T E S T    R E P L I E S    (Newest First)
Matthew Martin Posted - 04/15/2018 : 12:48:59
I could right now, but I want the cranks to have room to slide up for taller riders, so when I grow I wont have to remake the frame.



the shapes represent the amount of space that a foot needs when pedaling. I don't want much heel overlap when the BB is in the farthest position.
warren Posted - 04/15/2018 : 09:25:10
That's much better! Is there any way you can bring the front wheel closer to the cranks without having your feet hit it?
Matthew Martin Posted - 04/14/2018 : 19:39:19
A lot has happened since the last post...

About three weeks ago I started to work on the new design and I cut the frame and welded the new tube



All was good I the welded in the chain stays and dropouts


Then after some rides down the drive way I noticed quite a bit of flex.. I expected this as I had not added any triangulation yet, however what I did not know was that the flex was actualy tube failing.



After being extremely frustrated I got to work, I managed to salvage the chain stays and dropouts so that the new tube rest insite of the old tube like a jacket.



I then worked on adding some triagulation. I did this in a way that I do not like to do things, which is with out any plans. I simply took a few measurements and decided if it looked good or not.







The results came out great, the frame is stiff , but heavy
mind the chair in the back...I was fixing them for neighbors.









Now I am just working on the pulley mount!
I will re make the steering linkage later with some smaller tubing that is not conduit.
Speedbiker Posted - 03/31/2018 : 22:44:40
Good job, Matthew. I love the shorter design. Keep up the great work.
Matthew Martin Posted - 03/31/2018 : 12:59:14
Well I have done some more work and have made all the main components, like the BB clamp and handle bars. I could have had it ride able but decided to change the design (Shorter).
The BB clap with the Tiagra crankset



The handle bar


Cutting up the frame


New design

Matthew Martin Posted - 03/06/2018 : 17:51:58
by unrestricted do you mean no steering limiter? I do plan to implement one later on. Thanks for the advice... I use the muriatic acid with a respirator outside, and don't stick around as soon as I insert my piece.
alevand Posted - 03/04/2018 : 08:06:11
That's progress. Steering looks unrestricted. You'll need landing gear or a kickstand to get in and out of the fairing through the top, or a side door, you wont be able to stand up with the bars that far back. I have used the same ace hardware wheel barrow bearings for steering and tack them in the same way. I split the tube lengthwise and welded it back for a tight fit. I used 4130 tubing for the spindle instead of a solid 15 mm bolt, welded into a T, well more like and arrow head. If you angle the bars down, its more comfortable to ride. You might have some interference with the right brake and pivot, I like to push the brakes as far inboard as possible, so they don't contact the fairing. I have made a second stub just for the pivot. You can run the front brake cable along the linkage. I make the remote pivot a little further outboard than the fork end, as space is tight for turning in the fairing. I've always attached the pivot to the fork crown, because the front of the fairing was lower, you might have trouble seeing the road in front of the bike. Id recommend not using HCL for zinc removal, as a whiff of the fumes will destroy your sense of smell permanently (my experience, I cant smell a thing).

C:
Tony Levand
Matthew Martin Posted - 03/02/2018 : 20:32:33
I rolled down the driveway!

I got the linkage set up using conduit, which I de-galvanized using muriatic acid. This is only a temporary solution and will upgrade later, but should work even when I put the cranks on. I have to order 2 more idlers for the chain management.
The steering tube is simply 2 washers and a bolt though them. This creates a lot of slop. I have bearings which can be pressed in however I cant find the proper 15mm bolt to fit the bore on the bearing anywhere online.



Matthew Martin Posted - 02/25/2018 : 20:33:06
Here are pics of the front mount and rear mount.





The pictures on the previous page shows how the seat it mounted. I am not concerned about weight right now, rather I just want to get a moving bike. I will work on weight later.

And Alevand, I am using chain management pulleys to keep the chain below the frame rather than across the frame.
alevand Posted - 02/25/2018 : 19:13:49
Watch for interferences in the chain line and frame.

C:
Tony Levand
carolina Posted - 02/25/2018 : 09:35:11
Can u show frt & rear seat mount. I have used 2 choices. Then one on my lowracer (df / quest velo hardware), and in my velomobiel (WAW/ & Quest hardware). My favorite seat hardware is DF. Df and quest use lightest seat on earth because of their hardware that holds seat. Your building a velomobiel per definition. I have studied velomobiels for 4 years daily. Study Daniel fenn for weight savings.

Some definitions:
go back to definition of velomobile: it provides aerodynamic advantage, weather protection, human powered. (Even though i think a trike with a shell is a trike with a shell). The modern unibody can be your second build.
-
velosRus.com
warren Posted - 02/25/2018 : 09:13:19
That should work fine and also provide some passive suspension.
Matthew Martin Posted - 02/23/2018 : 16:02:10
The reason that there is so much space is mostly for storage. As I stated long ago I need it to fit my skateboard and book bag, and to do this I had to make the shape of the body longer. I figured that I might as well move the wheel farther back the help with wind stability. The wheel farther back will also allow for larger riders.




Thank you for pointing that out!. I currently can't do anything to triangulate, as I need to get more tubing, so I am open to suggestion, however this is my current solution.


warren Posted - 02/23/2018 : 08:01:32
I may have missed this but why is there so much space between the seat back and the rear wheel? Storage? Batteries? Dog seat? Taller riders?

Also you are adding some triangulation to those rear stays, right? Those butt welds will fail eventually.
Matthew Martin Posted - 02/22/2018 : 20:30:33
Thanks for the suggestions, however I have already purchased the rod ends from mcmaster carr. Anyway I plan to finish the steering soon, but here is a better pic of what I have done.

nickyfitz Posted - 02/20/2018 : 13:55:35
Great progress Matthew. Looking good!

FWIW I have built my remote steering linkages using tie rod bearings from IGUS. They are a German company but seems they have a US distributor. They do lots of other good stuff too :-)

https://www.igus.com/igubal

I'm not saying they're any better than what others have suggested, but they are high quality and do save a few grams. Thought they might be of interest to you or others, especially when you get to the phase where you want to shave off every excess gram from the bike!
alevand Posted - 02/20/2018 : 06:34:47
Its huge!(as a quote from the incumbent). Looks almost ready for a coast down the driveway. I use linkage for remote steering. Weldable tube ends are available from Mc Master carr. I use 5/16 fine thread nuts and grind the corners off so the fit part way into the tube, then weld them on, one left and one right hand thread. Links should be as close to perpendicular to the steering axis as practical, if not then its best to have the angles be equal between link, steering axis and remote axis. The rod ends only have +/- 11 degrees swivel, but much less when fastened . I use the plain steel ones, they have more swivel than the lined ones, brass or ptfe. They work fine, a drop of oil now and then. I grind the retaining nut into a cone shape to get more swivel. You can get a little more out steering of the swivel if the rod end attachment bisects the angle and not exactly parallel with the steering axi.

https://www.mcmaster.com/#tube-end-weld-nuts/=1bng9gm

C:
Tony Levand
Speedbiker Posted - 02/20/2018 : 03:39:48
It looks great, Matthew. Keep up the good work and continued development.
Matthew Martin Posted - 02/19/2018 : 19:17:05
I have decided to mount the seat in another way, so when I make a fiberglass seat later on , so I can use the same mounts.

This is going to be the part that the steerer will mount to.


Part of the mount

completed bottom mount



I took a cool long exposure shot


Wheels on



Making the top mount


I designed the seat myself in cad and made templates to make the final.



I did not put much effort into this seat I just wanted to get the seat over with.



Mounts







I also put some details into the new shape
alevand Posted - 02/04/2018 : 19:00:53
Coyote drive train:


C:
Tony Levand
alevand Posted - 02/01/2018 : 18:44:31
I use hose clamps. I cut a piece about 3 in length of tubing that fits a little more than half way around the main tube, this is welded to the seat frame in front.

C:
Tony Levand
Matthew Martin Posted - 02/01/2018 : 18:31:45
I have been wondering... What is the best way to mount a seat to a recumbent. I want to start with a ply wood seat, and make my own fiberglass seat later on. I need it to be low profile so the bottom of the seat is close to the main tube that it is mounted to.
Matthew Martin Posted - 01/31/2018 : 18:41:25
you are not wrong...its massive. comes in at about 9 ft long. I also grinded down my welds on the dropouts and went back over them, being careful not to blow through the tubing
alevand Posted - 01/31/2018 : 18:19:26
They look strong enough. The bike looks really long, I think my carp was 79 inch wheel base. It had the steer tube sticking out of the fairing. Maybe I m just use to looking at my SWB bike.

C:
Tony Levand
Matthew Martin Posted - 01/31/2018 : 15:13:32
I am not concerned with how the weld looks right now. I will look into mig gas later but for now I just want a strong weld. before painting I will smoothen the welds with bondo to make the frame look "seamless" after being painted.

www.recumbents.com © 2017 www.recumbents.com Go To Top Of Page
Snitz Forums 2000