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 Lunatic Fringe 3.0 Streetliner

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T O P I C    R E V I E W
LunaticFringe Posted - 11/18/2017 : 17:05:11
WOW! I've been out of the game for a while. It's time to jump back in.

I had gotten up to 299.9 pounds, which scared me, and now I'm down to 230. By May, I'll hopefully be around 199.9. A 100 pound loss would be cool! I'm riding fast again and feeling GREAT. In the past few years, my town, Tucson, AZ, has built an amazing system of bike-friendly trails with no cars around (about 100 miles worth) and this streetliner will be a blast to cruise on it. I will also attend a few velodrome races with you guys, hopefully in 2018. Wahoo!


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I weighed about 280 pounds when I was riding 2.0. It was so fast that I allowed it to trick me into thinking that I was still fit at that weight. Hah!



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This project will start off with the same bike that I had used for 2.0, pictured below. It is the Steintrikes Speedster FS. The full suspension makes it a dream to ride on rough roads and it was really fast with the old fairing on it. The old fairing was HUGE. The new one will be much lighter and easier to transport. It has the Schlumpf High Speed Drive for the higher gearing needed for a streamlined bike.









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This new fairing will be constructed of a mix of an existing fiberglass fairing and fabric-over-rib construction, similar to Rick Gritters' awesome ride. I will be learning from the DVD available from GA Boats. It shows every step about how to build fabric-over-rib boats, like an 8 pound canoe. http://www.gaboats.com/


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The nose fairing arrives soon (pictured below, on a trike). I got it on eBay at a delivered price approx. $123. Made by Midnor Mold. It seems to be a decent shape to start with and I can easily modify it to suit my needs. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Recumbent-Bicycle-Nose-Cone-Recumbent-Fairing-Recumbent-Nose-/263269950942



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I set up my work area today so that I can begin the process. This won't be a mad rush and I'll start by making a stand for the bike so that it sits on top of the work table. I figure that I'll be done in a couple of easy months' work this winter.





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I no longer use a factory for my business activities. I only sell my product designs online using about 35 websites. I mostly sell traffic related security products and fake rock waterfalls for swimming pools. I'll be building this streetliner at a house where I operate the business from. I have still messed around with fiberglass over the years and recently made a ram air system for the Harley that WORKS GREAT.





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There won't be a techinical, dimensioned drawing for this build... I'm just going to wing-it and post pics along the way. It seems that the fabric-over-rib construction will be affordable and light. Since I'll be a newbie at that type of construction, I won't lock myself into a technical drawing.

I'll post more pics as it develops over the next couple of months. Next post might be in a week or two.

Jeff Bales
Tucson, AZ
Lunatic Fringe 3.0
25   L A T E S T    R E P L I E S    (Newest First)
LunaticFringe Posted - 04/22/2018 : 21:39:22
What a way to finish off the day!

I covered almost half of the frame with fabric. I had considered trying to do the entire sheh-bang with one single piece of fabric, but I'm not an expert yet and I needed to maintain the hustle. It will be easier to repair panels if they are already separate anyway.

All of the following is with the fabric BEFORE it has been shrunken. I will do that tomorrow, making sure that all of the fabric's glue has fully dried. A bigger piece of fabric will have more pull than the small door done previously.

A few videos help to explain a bit of what this is like to do.

I used duct tape to establish a cut-off point for the front of the fabric against the fiberglass nose. It worked well, allowing me to cut the excess off with a fresh X-Acto knife. ;)

The roll of fabric as I began to lay it out... the temptation to lay it all up as a single piece was there!



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This video shows my state of mind before gluing it all up... nervous! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ynjxTKGIsxI

Success! It was just as easy to glue up the fabric as it was on the door! I feel like I can rock-n-roll right through this pretty quickly now. I've learned that I spent WAY too much time sanding the major fiberglass spars. I had watched videos that said that it was best to make everything perfect because it would show dramatically through the fabric. Hah! The fabric hides a LOT of flaws in fiberglass like sanding marks and bubbles.



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The following 2 pictures make the thing look like a giant Japanese lantern of sorts. Hah!



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This video shows how much more relieved I am now. ;)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q82HF-2v_bg

I'm on the down-hill side of it all now!

Jeff
LunaticFringe Posted - 04/22/2018 : 16:16:43
Take a break?! Nah, I got right back on it.

The Kevlar roving is now done... IT'S FABRIC TIME, BOYS AND GIRLS!



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This video shows a bit better how the roving helps to create a curvature that will support the fabric.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bmIC2Tspu2Q

Oddly enough, I think that the creation of the Kevlar roving lines was the most fun of this build so far.

Jeff
LunaticFringe Posted - 04/20/2018 : 20:24:43
I did a few hours of Kevlar roving work and will probably do more on Monday to finish it off.

On the flat surfaces, just fan out the end, adhere into place with thickened cyanoacrylate and kicker spray. Make sure that the receiving surface is sanded. It holds VERY well. After it hardens (about 1 minute), twist the roving a lot so that all of the fibers are wrapped into a nice tight thread of sorts. Then you can pull like a monkey to go around the opposing surface and glue that end into place before cutting it off. You want the Kevlar strand to be very tight. This helps to control the shrinking fabric and prevent inward puckers.

Basically, you want to create 'facets' on irregular planes, like a geodesic dome or diamond.



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In this picture, you can see how the Kevlar is out past fiberglass spars as it connects to another spar. In those areas a large pucker would occur without the support of the Kevlar.



'Gonna ride the Harley for hours tomorrow with the biker club. I need a break! ;)

Jeff
LunaticFringe Posted - 04/20/2018 : 16:26:27
OMG!!!!

This works amazingly well!



Before shrinking...



After shrinking at 250 degrees and with aluminum paint applied for UV protection...



This blue is amazing!!!



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A short video that shows how well the door fabric is formed...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mnVBBpSr6jQ

Jeff

LunaticFringe Posted - 04/20/2018 : 14:05:18
Selective use of Kevlar roving is now in play. I've got it strung tight, like guitar string. I believe that it will hold and help to control the shape of the fabric near the high spots.

Wish me luck! Next pic will be the resulting fabric shrunken over the door frame.



Jeff
LunaticFringe Posted - 04/20/2018 : 11:37:15
quote:
Originally posted by warren

Yay! Any idea how heavy the fairing frame is getting to be?



I just now weighed it without the Flevo roof. We're at 76 pounds. If the bike weighs 43, then we're at 33 for the fairing. A bit beefy and ridiculous looking, but it will carry a ton of stuff in the rear, kind of like Kim Kardashian.



Jeff
warren Posted - 04/20/2018 : 09:13:47
Yay! Any idea how heavy the fairing frame is getting to be?
LunaticFringe Posted - 04/19/2018 : 19:54:26
Guess who finished all of the spar work tonight?

Yep... this guy.

Jeff
LunaticFringe Posted - 04/18/2018 : 20:12:26
I used to use a 2x4 with rough sand paper to knock down rough Bondo, but I discovered a new trick! I used a BRICK in place of the 2x4. The weight of the brick really makes the sand paper bite and it sands nice and level, easy to control. Hah! I sanded and trimmed the Balsa/'glass spar.



I added 2 angled vertical spars behind the seat so that the fairing and its fabric won't distort in the future if I need to remove it from the bike. I only needed a half-tube's worth of fiberglass for reinforcement, plus it's quicker. I'm running out of time, so it's go, go, GO!




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What's left to do prior to the fabric? The last Balsa/'glass spar. coming soon!



Jeff

harv Posted - 04/18/2018 : 14:43:55
Garrie, I had some time to kill and a Google search turned up this site that sells balsa and bass wood. http://tinyurl.com/ydcsckht
LunaticFringe Posted - 04/18/2018 : 13:37:12
I'll probably post a couple of pics later today. I added a couple more spars and I've been working out to improve my stamina.

It's just a Schwinn stationary bike, but I can now ride at a cadence of 90 and 17 mph for an hour straight through. 'Feeling so much better! I can't wait to see how the 'liner rides!

Jeff
LunaticFringe Posted - 04/13/2018 : 10:10:44
quote:
Originally posted by Garrie L Hill

Jeff;
Where do you buy large section Balsa? Around here the only Balsa is in Hobby Shops in tiny sections for model airplanes.

Garrie




Sorry, I don't remember where I got it from and the box no longer has markings from the supplier. I bought it online about 18 years ago. ;) It was a supplier to hobby stores.



Jeff
Garrie L Hill Posted - 04/12/2018 : 18:40:01
Jeff;
Where do you buy large section Balsa? Around here the only Balsa is in Hobby Shops in tiny sections for model airplanes.

Garrie "carbon based lifeform" Hill
HPRA Co-Dictator of the East
for pics of some of my time and money sucking projects
http://s58.photobucket.com/albums/g277/cfbb/
and videos
http://vimeo.com/5513519


LunaticFringe Posted - 04/11/2018 : 20:48:20
OK, I figured out a fast and effective way to add the extra spars that I need, without grafting a full PVC pipe into place. I clamped a PVC pipe onto the outside of the body, then shaped Balsa wood to conform to the inside curve.



I used a strip of sand paper from a mini belt sander to shape the Balsa wood to a curved point prior to laminating under fiberglass. Tomorrow, I'll trim it and do a minor sanding job to it.



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Oh, yeah... life is so much better with a kick stand! I fabbed a fiberglass mount for it. It's quite robust and holds the bike up well. I can easily fab a wider bar that clips on to widen the stance for windy days. That messy looking film on the frame is just water-soluble PVA mold release that will wash off later. This bike is heavy toward the front. This placement, behind the front wheel, works GREAT.



Jeff
carolina Posted - 04/06/2018 : 01:32:34
U probably watch a bunch, heres another, zillion on youtube.

https://youtu.be/uKRTA_N2bIs

velosRus.com
LunaticFringe Posted - 04/05/2018 : 21:25:52
I had the same idea, Warren! I tried to selectively shrink the material, thinking about how it would pull in various ways, but that sucker puckered right up, anyway.

This pic shows how the door still fits GREAT and resists the fabric shrinkage, even at a 350 degree shrink (the tightest). The bike is upside-down because I'm installing the kick-stand.



Since this door is a test piece that failed I went ahead and hit it with the aluminized paint (UV protection) and the final color to see how well it would apply. Painting this thing is going to be the easiest part!



Tomorrow, I'll remove the failed fabric application and consider options. It may be a mix of extra spars and some kevlar roving to provide fabric support, much like how fabric canoes are made. The door spars will probably be sculpted foam overlaid with 'glass. I'll get there!

The Gulf Racing paint scheme is what I'll probably shoot for... not a perfect color match, but close enough to be crazy-visible.



Jeff
warren Posted - 04/05/2018 : 20:30:44
Looks great, Jeff. I think you need to practice "selective shrinkage" to prevent unwanted bowing. Or something like that...
LunaticFringe Posted - 04/05/2018 : 15:26:13
'Pretty sure I've made a mistake about the fabric characteristics...

I believe that when I heat shrink the door in these pics that the center of the door will bow inward since there is no spar there to prevent that. D'oh!

That means that I'll have to add a few more spars in a few areas on the main body, also.

I'm going to post the pics of what happens this afternoon, but I'm sure that more spar work is due. That's what I get for rushing this project AND trying to move my new wife and her kids in at the same time. Ah, life is always interesting. ;)

The tight bends and adhesion in between the fabric and glue will probably be improved by using a small iron at 225 degrees just before shrinking the fabric overall at 250 degrees.



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I predict that the fabric will shrink inward in the direction of the arrow (some out there might be saying, "I knew it!"). ;)



Jeff
LunaticFringe Posted - 04/04/2018 : 16:28:17
The door frames are done! I found that I don't need to use magnets and will just use Velcro straps to secure against allowing a wind gust to blow a door open.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KAEIggdoXUQ

OK... 'kind of freaking out now... is it time to put the fabric onto the frame?! AAAAAAAAAH! 'Never done THAT before! (takes deep breath)

I'll spend the rest of my time out there today doing some last minute detail work, then... I'm out of excuses... it will be fabric time.

I think that I'll start with putting fabric onto the door frames since they are small and can be easily re-done of I mess up.

=)

Jeff
LunaticFringe Posted - 04/03/2018 : 11:54:16
Now, I'm considering canceling my attendance to the HPV Fun Day in San Jose on May 5th, instead, attending this gig:

"5/19/2018 to 5/20/2018 34th annual Michigan Human Powered Vehicle Rally
Location: Clarkston, Mich.
Description:
The oldest racing event for human powered vehicles in North America will again take place at the Waterford Hills sports car racing track in Clarkston, near Pontiac in southeastern Michigan. Free camping available on grounds Friday and Saturday nights. Entry fees, schedule of events and other information to come.

If you've never been to the Michigan HPV Rally and would like a preview, read about past rallies at mhpva.blogspot.com."

Doing so will allow me to pass through Kansas City, MO as I head up from Arizona. I'd be able to visit an ailing favorite uncle AND do the race. FUN!

Jeff
LunaticFringe Posted - 04/02/2018 : 13:43:48
SO... it looks like I'll actually be able to finish LunaticFringe 3.0 in time for the HPV Fun Day in San Jose on May 5th. It will probably not be painted, but ride-able is good enough! Hmm... maybe I should start getting some time in on the exercise bike. Hah!

Only 4 weeks to train. Well, that beats none!

Off we go!



Jeff
LunaticFringe Posted - 04/01/2018 : 20:52:50
quote:
Originally posted by carolina

U ever seen the ming? Remind me of yours a lilí.



Thatís cool!

J
carolina Posted - 04/01/2018 : 19:57:15
U ever seen the ming? Remind me of yours a lilí.









_________________



velosRus.com
LunaticFringe Posted - 04/01/2018 : 14:12:51
Happy Easter!

Today I will finish up the other door fitment.



Before I put the Bondo onto the door frame, I plopped the roof into place for another look. I recurved the struts to get a more aero roof profile. I'll probably add a small piece of clear Lexan onto the struts for slightly more aero.



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I'll be getting rid of trash from the move after I finish this bike. When you combine 2 households, I think that excess junk magically multiplies.

Jeff
LunaticFringe Posted - 03/31/2018 : 18:15:27
The wifey is all moved in and I found a few hours today to do some work on the LunaticFringe 3.0

I trimmed the head fairing mounting points and trimmed up a door after dialing it in with the edge of the surrounding spars. A couple of videos, too.

Explanation of how the head fairing works:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yf4rA_coIAQ&t=4s

Pics of a door being dialed in:



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Video of door operation:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4micuUJuMug

Jeff

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