www.recumbents.com - Velomobile 6
www.recumbents.com
www.recumbents.com
Home | Profile | Register | Active Topics | Members | Search | FAQ
Username:
Password:
Save Password
 All Forums
 www.recumbents.com
 Velomobiles
 Velomobile 6
 New Topic  Reply to Topic
 Printer Friendly
Previous Page | Next Page
Author Previous Topic Topic Next Topic
Page: of 15

raymondg
recumbent guru

865 Posts

Posted - 02/03/2011 :  07:57:19  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Ridiculously nice work as usual Rick. Thanks for your continued sharing. Sorry to hear about the lathe motor. I imagine choice words were uttered.

-Raymond
Go to Top of Page

rickmantoo
recumbent enthusiast

USA
274 Posts

Posted - 02/03/2011 :  13:33:25  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Thanks Raymond. It takes 3 times longer to make modifications then to do it right the first time. I am going to take the lathe motor apart and see if It is fixable. I did some checking and it just may be the capacitors.

Rick
Go to Top of Page

rickmantoo
recumbent enthusiast

USA
274 Posts

Posted - 02/03/2011 :  17:08:28  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Well I did some digging into the lathe motor problem and it seams I blew up the run capacitor in my motor. It is a strange size hopefully I will be able to find one in town.


Rick
Go to Top of Page

warren
human power expert

USA
6051 Posts

Posted - 02/17/2011 :  19:21:37  Show Profile  Visit warren's Homepage  Reply with Quote
I added page 7 to the web log version of Ricks build.

http://www.recumbents.com/wisil/wianecki/velomobile/page7.htm

This gets it caught up to the end of January...

-Warren.
Go to Top of Page

rickmantoo
recumbent enthusiast

USA
274 Posts

Posted - 03/05/2011 :  18:19:39  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
It has been a little while since I have been able to work on the modifications to the velomobile.
I got the motor issues worked out and started by machining some brackets to mount the drum brakes on the struts.

I used a boring bar to cut a 1 1/4" radius in the side of a 1/2" aluminum plate. This will be mounted to the struts to attach the brake back plate.


Here are the struts the one on the top is assembled and the one on the the bottom shows all the parts. I still need to make a bracket for the steering arms.


This picture shows the brake drum and the wheel mounted to the strut.


Next thing was to add the strut brackets to the frame. I mounted the frame to a flat piece of countertop and added some 1/8" thick steel brackets to the top of the existing frame.


This picture shows one of the struts mounted to the frame.


Next I will work on getting the steering connected and reinforcing the strut mounts.

Ricl
Go to Top of Page

rickmantoo
recumbent enthusiast

USA
274 Posts

Posted - 03/13/2011 :  15:43:01  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I was able to get a little time to continue to work on the modified front suspension this weekend.
I mounted both struts and front wheels and set the alignment as best I could.


I noticed that the top of one of the strut mounts was misaligned with the steering angle of the strut.


I took this side apart and heated and bent the top of the mount to get it aligned a little better. This will do for now but I think I will adjust some more next time I take it apart.


Next I redid the steering arm and mounted it to the frame.


I then Mounted the tierods and bent up some brackets to attach the tierods to the struts.


Next to do is mount the brackets to the struts and start assembling the rest of the frame.

Rick W
Go to Top of Page

warren
human power expert

USA
6051 Posts

Posted - 03/14/2011 :  18:45:32  Show Profile  Visit warren's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Hi Rick,

It looks like you are making good progress. Very nice work on the struts. I'll be interested to hear the ride report once you get it back together.

-Warren.
Go to Top of Page

rickmantoo
recumbent enthusiast

USA
274 Posts

Posted - 03/15/2011 :  18:28:50  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Warren
Thanks for the comment. Yes I also want to find out if this in an improvement over the sliding pillar suspension I had on the frame before. Also I increased the track by about 2 inches so the vehicle should be more stable at high speed corners. I hope to have the frame together and out for testing soon.

Rick W
Go to Top of Page

warren
human power expert

USA
6051 Posts

Posted - 03/16/2011 :  05:55:00  Show Profile  Visit warren's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Does that means you need to split the velo body to widen it two inches as well? :)

-Warren.
Go to Top of Page

rickmantoo
recumbent enthusiast

USA
274 Posts

Posted - 03/16/2011 :  10:04:21  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Warren
I was not think of something so drastic. I am planning on adding some small wheelwell extension/flares if they are needed.

Rick W
Go to Top of Page

rickmantoo
recumbent enthusiast

USA
274 Posts

Posted - 03/20/2011 :  15:46:32  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
So I drilled and taped some holes in the side of each of the front struts to mount some aluminum brackets for the steering tie rods.


Here is a picture if the brackets mounted to the struts.


I mounted the struts and steering to the frame and installed the front boom and the chain ring. I need to sort out the chain line next.


Rick W
Go to Top of Page

rickmantoo
recumbent enthusiast

USA
274 Posts

Posted - 03/29/2011 :  16:20:31  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I was able to get the chain line and the Idlers worked out. Changing the front suspension and raising the bottom bracket meant that I had to totally reroute the chain.
This picture shows the revised chain line. Everything is just tacked together


I made the chain tensioner from a piece of old derailer I had in the old parts box. This will allow me to fine tune the bottom bracket position without adding or removing chain links.


Hare is a view from the bottom of the frame showing the suspension and steering rods and the chain alignment.


Next I will assemble the trike and do some road testing before I try to stuff the frame back into the body to see what mods will need to be done to it.

Rick
Go to Top of Page

Loki
Starting Member

USA
43 Posts

Posted - 03/31/2011 :  16:51:13  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I have been reading your progress reports and wanted to let you know I appreciate the info. I am especially interested in the work you are doing on the front suspension. I just finished building a small trike without front suspension, and I would like to add a suspension. I am thinking of a sliding system that would be simple and light. I was wondering why you changed your mind on your concept for a sliding system. I can see the McPherson struts will be a better solution. Did you change because you wanted something better or did the sliders cause other problems.

Thanks--Lee

Trike Photos
http://s764.photobucket.com/albums/xx289/loki40007/Recumbent%20Tandem%20Trike/
http://s764.photobucket.com/albums/xx289/loki40007/Recumbent%20Trike/
Go to Top of Page

rickmantoo
recumbent enthusiast

USA
274 Posts

Posted - 04/03/2011 :  14:03:16  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Lee

I found that with the sliding kingpin suspension the steering was very sensitive and I had to place the tie rods at very steep angles to try and eliminate the bump steer. I was never happy with how the trike handled at speeds over 25 mph. I am Hoping the new design will be better.

Rick
Go to Top of Page

rickmantoo
recumbent enthusiast

USA
274 Posts

Posted - 04/03/2011 :  14:24:29  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Well I got the frame all assembled and did some adjusting alignment of the front wheels.

I first adjusted the rod ends so the wheels were vertical and had no camber in or out. Here is one of the front wheels before I adjusted the camber. You can see it is leaning outward. Then I adjusted the toe in to 0


Here is a picture of the lower A-Arms and steering rods. With all the rod ends there are allot of adjustments possible.


Here is the completed frame ready for a test ride. Just as I finished it started snowing and raining. Guess I will wait for another day.


Next is to refit the frame in the body and sort out the mounts and start on the electrical.

Rick W
Go to Top of Page

teubner
recumbent guru

796 Posts

Posted - 04/03/2011 :  14:30:39  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
No offense intended, but consider putting a couple hundred miles on the frame before you fit the body, in case something has to change.
Go to Top of Page

rickmantoo
recumbent enthusiast

USA
274 Posts

Posted - 04/10/2011 :  15:08:25  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
We finally had some nicer weather today so I was able to trike the frame out for a shake down ride for a couple of hours. I am very happy with the results the front suspension and steering are greatly improved and by raising the bottom bracket up the back of my legs do not rub on the front cross tubes. The steering is light and responsive and the trike is stable at all speeds with no bump steer.

I took some pictures of the completed frame outside, I think they show things better then the pictures in the garage.

Here is a front view of the frame siting in my front yard


Here is a close up view of the front suspension


Here is a rear view looking at the battery box


I am still going to ride the frame around to make sure the drive train is bulletproof and I do not have any I issues with chain derailments. I am going to move my focus back to the body and the electrical system.

Rick W
Go to Top of Page

rickmantoo
recumbent enthusiast

USA
274 Posts

Posted - 05/04/2011 :  18:54:58  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I have been able to put some miles on the frame. I am very happy with how everything is working out. I had to do some tweaks to the chain-line and idler placement but that is now working great.
I was really pushing the electric assist hard and the electric motor would loosen and I would drop the chain so I made a better mounting.
Here you can see the top mounting bar had a slot for adjustment. I could not keep this from moving and adding slack to the drive chain.


I made a mount that I can adjust the tension by turning the coupler nut and then locking it in place with a jam nut. This works much better and I have not had any more trouble with the drive chain.


Another thing I did was make some delrin clamps that will allow the seat to rotate forward.
Currently I just have some hose clamps but they scratch and mar the paint.


I do not want that to happen when I repaint the frame so I made some delrin inserts that will go around the tube that will allow the seat tube to rotate without marring the paint.

Here is the delrin insert and the thumb screw clamp I am using.


Here is a picture of the assembled clamp. I made 2.


Next project is remounting the frame in the body.

Rick
Go to Top of Page

rickmantoo
recumbent enthusiast

USA
274 Posts

Posted - 06/07/2011 :  16:46:58  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Finally found some more time to continue on this project. I have been riding the bare frame and it appears everything is working well. I decided to try and refit the frame into the body.

First I lowered the body from it's storage location.


I then removed the wheels and battery from the trike frame.


Next I tried to fit the frame into the body. It took some pushing and I finally got it in place. It became obvious at this point it was not going to just go back the way it was. The new front suspension overall is taller and slightly wider.


I fiddled around for a while to get the frame and front wheels centered in the wheel wells. I then used my vibratory saw to enlarge the openings where the frame sticks through.


What I discovered is the new wheelbase is slightly different then the old wheelbase so none of the mounts lined up. This is one of the problems with modifying the existing frame.

So I modified the rear mount to use the same mounting points on the frame and the body by adding some extensions and a shim.

I then decided to make new front mounts that would support the body at the top of the wheel wells and be bolted to the top of the strut mounts. Here are the mounts brazed up.


This picture shows the new front mount in place.


Next step will be to reinforce the mounting locations with fiberglass and finish the mounting of the lights and turn signals. And of course paint everything.

Rick
Go to Top of Page

rickmantoo
recumbent enthusiast

USA
274 Posts

Posted - 06/14/2011 :  17:41:49  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Before I remove the frame from the body I decided to make the rear wheel enclosure. I decided to use some corroplast I have here Hopefully it will be fairly waterproof . I started by making some cardboard templates to try and get the pieces worked out to clear the rear wheel and suspension. I also wanted a back shelf to hold my water bladder .


Once the Patterns were made I transfered over to the corroplast and cut out the pieces. I decided I would work on the top piece first.


I ordered some box rivets on line to assembly the pieces. Drill a 1/4 inch hole and snap them together. Worked good.


Here is the top piece in the vehicle


Next I will cut out and assemble the remaining pieces.

Rick
Go to Top of Page

rickmantoo
recumbent enthusiast

USA
274 Posts

Posted - 06/19/2011 :  16:49:24  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I started to sort out the parts for the lighting on the Velo. I am going to use some motorcycle marker lights for the turn signals. They come with double sided tape to stick them on but I wanted to do something different. I wanted to be able to bolt them on.

Here is one of the lights the cardboard pattern I made for the mounting plate and hollow threaded lamp stud I got at a lighting supply store.


I cut the threaded lamp studs in half so they were 3/4" long. You can also see the mounting plate pattern and one of the mounting plates.


I laid out and cut 4 mounting plated from 0.032 in. steel sheet.

I then brazed the hollow studs to the backing plates


Here is what the final turn signal assembly will look like. I will clean and paint the mounting bracket and glue the turn signal to the mounting plate.


Next I will a add the tail and brake lights to the body.

Rick
Go to Top of Page

rickmantoo
recumbent enthusiast

USA
274 Posts

Posted - 06/26/2011 :  16:51:37  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Today I started to install the rear taillight lens on the tail of the velomobile.
I first took one of the two plastic lenses that Garrie Hill formed for me and taped it to the body and drew the outline of the lens.


I then cut the shape out.


I taped the lens to the body and traced the outline.


I then used my vibratory saw and careful cut the fiberglass body.


Next I used a wood rasp and contoured the foam on the inside of the body so I can place a fiberglass lip that will support the edge of the tail light lens.


Once the foam is shaped the lens is taped back on so that it lines up with the fiberglass. This will be the form for the glass and epoxy that will be added to the inside. Additional tape will be added all around the lens to keep it aligned with the body.


When I do the glassing at the tail light lens I will also reinforce the new front body mount locations and the area around the front suspension openings that I has to enlarge. Here are these areas ready for epoxy and glass.


Next is to do the last of the fiberglass work.

Rick
Go to Top of Page

rickmantoo
recumbent enthusiast

USA
274 Posts

Posted - 06/29/2011 :  16:53:09  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I was able to do some fiberglass work on the body.

First I taped the tail light lens even with the body cut out all the way around. This will allow me to add some fiberglass on the inside and this will create a lip to attach the lens to.


I then laid the body on its side and added a layer of glass cloth over any exposed foam. I also added 2 layers of cloth to create the tail light lens lip. You can also see the ledge I created to support the rear tire cover and shelf.


Here is a picture of the fiberglass in the inside of the tail light lens.


Here is a picture looking at the tail light lens from the outside. Once the epoxy sets I will trim the fiberglass to give me about 1/2" lip all around the lense.


I also added some carbon cloth to reinforce the front body mounts and made sure I attached the inner fiberglass skin to the outer wherever there was an exposed edge at a cut out.


Next Back to the lighting system. I have still not determined where I am going to put the headlight. Most likely will cut a hole and mount it in the nose.

Rick
Go to Top of Page

warren
human power expert

USA
6051 Posts

Posted - 07/02/2011 :  12:45:47  Show Profile  Visit warren's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Looks great Rick!
Go to Top of Page

rickmantoo
recumbent enthusiast

USA
274 Posts

Posted - 07/04/2011 :  08:35:56  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Thanks Warren! I think I am headed down the home stretch on this project.

So the next thing I did after the epoxy cured is remove the tail light lens . I used a thin putty knife and worked it in slowly around the edge of the plastic. One thing that would of helped would have been to of waxed or use some mold release on the inside of the plastic.


I then Marked a 1/2" wide lip and cut it off with my vibratory saw.


I then had to decide on what the tail light assembly would actually be. I decided to use 3-30 bulb LED Tail/Brake light bulbs. Spaced vertically and mounted on a polished metal plate. I developed a cardboard/foam template that I will use to check the fit and alignment.


I then put together and wired the tail light assembly.


Here it is mounted in the body. There is a protective plastic coating on the polished side of the metal and I do have a another plastic lens that I will use when everything is finished.


Next I determined where I will be placing the LED turn signals and drilled holes for the mounting. Here is the front signal placement.


Here is the rear signal placement.


Lastly I bonded some aluminum stops in the floor to support the bottom of the rear fender enclosure.


Next step will be doing the final body work and paint. Still have not settled on a color. Green? Yellow? Orange? Red? White? Blue? So many colors Might have to flip a coin.

Rick
Go to Top of Page
Page: of 15 Previous Topic Topic Next Topic  
Previous Page | Next Page
 New Topic  Reply to Topic
 Printer Friendly
Jump To:
www.recumbents.com © 2017 www.recumbents.com Go To Top Of Page
Snitz Forums 2000