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rickmantoo
recumbent enthusiast

USA
274 Posts

Posted - 07/09/2011 :  13:35:52  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
So I started the process of doing the final sanding on the body before I can paint it. Still have not settled on a color.

So I have been using a carbon black guide coat and trying to get the panels as smooth as possible. I am using a lightweight filler in the low spots and sanding back to the fiberglass layer to try and not add too much extra weight.

Here is the left rear corner. I clamp the body to my work table to hold it for sanding.


Here is the left side.


I am going to mount the headlight in the nose. I ordered a Magicshine I will cut the opening and make the mounts once it arrives.


Next More sanding!!

Rick
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rickmantoo
recumbent enthusiast

USA
274 Posts

Posted - 07/20/2011 :  13:38:23  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Well I ordered a MagicShine light that I will mount in the front of the body. I first dropped a plumb line and marked the location to drill a 1 3/4" hole.


Next I cut out the fiberglass and foam on the in side on the nose.


I then fabricated up a light mount out of some 1" wide aluminum strips.


I drilled a hole in the front of the body so the light will just fit with a little clearance.


I then fabricated some mounting studs that will get bonded into the body. The studs are shown in their approximate location.


Next I will add several layers to fiberglass to bond in the studs and seal up the exposed foam.

One more thing while I was out riding the trike I noticed a ticking noise coming from the front wheel while I turned. It turned out to be the steering control arm was bending and pushing the spedo pickup into the front wheel spokes. So I need to remake the front steering arms a bit more beefier.


Rick
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RedskinsJBS
Starting Member

USA
2 Posts

Posted - 07/20/2011 :  17:48:54  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Rick,

Hi! I am new posting here, but I have been watching your build for the past 6 months or so. I have to say that I really am addicted to your build and it has played a large part in getting me hooked on velomobiles.

I forget now how I came upon velomobiles, but I think that they are the perfect solution for me. I am an engineering student and I think that building my own VM would be the perfect project over the next year.

I am no stranger to long projects... in high school I restored a 1972 Opel GT and I later built a 10' x 2' Gantry CNC machine... Both big year-plus projects.

Ok... enough of an introduction, on to my question. Do you have the measurements for your frame? Warren made a post at the beginning of the thread (I know, a long time ago) with a photo of the bare trike, but no measurements were ever posted. And you had a post of the basic layout of the fairing with some measurements, but not enough for me to work from. I ask because I am looking for a basic design where I could obtain all of the critical dimensions and then improve upon the design via some FEA so that I could lighten the trike a bit... And I like your design a lot because you use some big tubing with a few simple cuts to create a very stiff design; which means it shouldn't require that much improvement.

I have a CNC machine and a full Solidworks software suite, so I plan on designing the entire thing in CAD, building the frame by hand and have the CNC cut the profiles that I will 'stripfoam' to shape. I think that its the fastest route considering the amount of work that this will take... Plus I'll get to use my CNC router.

Ok, this post got very long... I think that it may be time to start my own thread.

Again, just looking for some basic helpful measurements at the moment. For sure there will be a lot more to come, but I think that I will create my own thread to ask the rest of those.

Jay Swift
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rickmantoo
recumbent enthusiast

USA
274 Posts

Posted - 07/21/2011 :  12:08:32  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Jay

I do have some drawings of the frame with dimensions that I have not posted before and I can send you full size drawings of the fairing skeleton. The base frame is 1.75" .035" wall tubing I buy mill length tubing lengths and use that size for most of the frames I build. I am not sure I have a dimensioned drawing of the frame with all the front suspension mods that is presentable since I modified the original design. I will dig through my files. PM me and we can discuss further. Thanks for looking at the project.

Rick
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rickmantoo
recumbent enthusiast

USA
274 Posts

Posted - 07/23/2011 :  15:03:29  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I did not work on sanding the body but I did fabricate some new steering arm brackets out of steel to replace the bent aluminum one on the trike. Garrie Hill is going to fabricate some carbon angles when he gets some time so the new steel steering brackets will work for now.

I first removed the bent bracket from the trike.


I then transfered the hole locations to some 1" wide 1/8" thisk steel bar I have.


Once the holes were Drilled I bent the steel bar in my vice. here is a picture comparing the steel and aluminum brackets for the Right front wheel.


Here is the bracket for left front wheel installed. Took the trike for A ride and it is working good.


Rick
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warren
human power expert

USA
6120 Posts

Posted - 07/24/2011 :  18:40:50  Show Profile  Visit warren's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Bracket man strikes again!
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Larry Lem
human power expert

South Sandwich Islands
2524 Posts

Posted - 07/24/2011 :  19:42:32  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
A cadence sensor bracket attached to a steering arm bracket.

Larry Lem
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rickmantoo
recumbent enthusiast

USA
274 Posts

Posted - 07/25/2011 :  07:35:36  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Larry

That is the spedo sensor from the Cycle Analyst I am using to monitor the electrical stuff.

Rick
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Larry Lem
human power expert

South Sandwich Islands
2524 Posts

Posted - 07/25/2011 :  07:54:48  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Somehow, I had the word "cadence" in my head. Yes, magnet on wheel, not crank!

Larry Lem
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rickmantoo
recumbent enthusiast

USA
274 Posts

Posted - 07/25/2011 :  13:22:07  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Larry

Yes that happens to me all the time.

While I had the trike out for a ride I discovered that all the spokes on the inside of the left wheel were loose. Must be from the bracket effect. I will fix that also.

Rick
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rickmantoo
recumbent enthusiast

USA
274 Posts

Posted - 07/31/2011 :  13:03:53  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Worked on the Velo again. Garrie Hill wants to meet up with the ROAM velomobiles in Indiana mid august so I need to get serious about finishing this thing. I think I will need to add a air vent so I laid a 6" NACA duct on the top in front of the windshield.


The inside foam layer was cut out and and then a layer of fiberglass was added. The next day I painted the inside of the top and bottom with a Duratech primer.
Here is the top painted


I also Painted the inside of the lower section on the body.


I am dissembling the frame and will get that painted next.

Rick
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rickmantoo
recumbent enthusiast

USA
274 Posts

Posted - 07/31/2011 :  13:10:40  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
So I have been considering what color to paint the outside of the velomoble. I asked Allen A for his thoughts and he sent me the color scheme below.


I like it and am seriously considering painting it that color.
I played around on Photoshop and came up with a red and white striped scheme. I Need to work on the strip layout a little and add some stars but it may also be a contender.


I need to decide soon.

Rick

Edited by - rickmantoo on 07/31/2011 13:12:11
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teubner
recumbent guru

796 Posts

Posted - 07/31/2011 :  13:44:12  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
If in doubt, but on a basecoat of bright white. Any color you want will benefit from the white on the bottom. Or you may decide to keep it unless you plan on riding in the snow.
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rickmantoo
recumbent enthusiast

USA
274 Posts

Posted - 07/31/2011 :  16:27:02  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Brad

That is a Great suggestion, I may do that just because of the time thing!

Rick W
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OleBent1
Starting Member

USA
4 Posts

Posted - 08/03/2011 :  15:21:39  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Don't know how much you're worried about this, but don't forget that dark top colors can really draw in the heat. No fun to bake inside a largely enclosed space.

Mike
(Cruzbike Sofrider V2.1)
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mikeatlbch
recumbent enthusiast

USA
205 Posts

Posted - 08/03/2011 :  19:42:00  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Rick
Go white and then get the advertiser to pay for the reflective wrap and profits...
Or just to advertise your favorite fruit.

Mike

Edited by - mikeatlbch on 08/03/2011 19:45:35
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teubner
recumbent guru

796 Posts

Posted - 08/03/2011 :  20:41:24  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Garrie mentioned that you wanted the bottom white also, to reflect the road heat. I'm not sure how to find the IR reflectivty index for paint, but it may have nothing to do with the visible color.
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Garrie L Hill
human power supergeek

USA
1692 Posts

Posted - 08/04/2011 :  07:56:00  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
"When designing an infrared reflective coating, maximizing total solar reflectance and emissivity, and minimizing all contamination by infrared absorbing materials is a necessity. Contamination must be eliminated from infrared reflective dispersions in order to achieve optimal reflectivity properties.

Impact of Visual Color on Total Solar Reflectance

Since visible light consists of approximately 42% of the solar terrestrial irradiance, the visible color of infrared pigmentation will dictate the maximum achievable total solar reflective benefit. All things being equal, the darker the visible color, the lower the total solar reflectance. Rutile titanium dioxide continues to be the base pigmentation of choice in highly reflective white coatings. Titanium dioxide exhibits excellent light scattering and infrared reflectance due to its high refractive index, however, the primary particle size is optimized to scatter light most efficiently in the 500-550 nanometer region."


i.e. - Since titanium dioxide is the base pigment in nearly all paints ( replacing good ole' lead oxide ), and the only pigment in the bright white paints which Rick would use, white is as good as it gets (short of going to gold, which is the supreme IR reflector).

White = good
Darker colors = not so much

On a similar line of thinking: Don't forget that Rick's velo is styrofoam core construction. After the outer surface heats up in the sun, the Igloo Cooler on Wheels resists heat conduction to the inside. Keeping adequate airflow through the inside to outside then keeps the rider from cooking in his own waste heat.

Garrie "carbon based lifeform" Hill
HPRA Co-Dictator of the East
for pics of some of my time and money sucking projects
http://garriehill.winkflash.com/
and
http://s58.photobucket.com/albums/g277/cfbb/
and videos
http://vimeo.com/5513519


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teubner
recumbent guru

796 Posts

Posted - 08/04/2011 :  10:18:15  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Garrie,
Do you know if that also applies to the long wavelength IR coming up from the 180F black asphalt?
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Garrie L Hill
human power supergeek

USA
1692 Posts

Posted - 08/04/2011 :  10:58:04  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Yes, it does, Brad. For FIR ( 50 - 1000 Ám ) only silver or gold mirrors ( or polished 1100 series aluminum mirrors) are better for FIR . I have found one interesting tidbit, however. If you add barium sulfate to the non-tinted, white titanium dioxide paint ( in a 60/40% mix) the reflectivity in all parts of the IR-visible-UV spectrum increases "dramatically". Now, what number is associated with "dramatically", I was not able to find.

Garrie "carbon based lifeform" Hill
HPRA Co-Dictator of the East
for pics of some of my time and money sucking projects
http://garriehill.winkflash.com/
and
http://s58.photobucket.com/albums/g277/cfbb/
and videos
http://vimeo.com/5513519


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warren
human power expert

USA
6120 Posts

Posted - 08/04/2011 :  12:05:43  Show Profile  Visit warren's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Isn't barium radioactive?
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Garrie L Hill
human power supergeek

USA
1692 Posts

Posted - 08/04/2011 :  13:59:24  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Barium Sulfate which, in this case, is not one of the radioactive isotopes.

Garrie "carbon based lifeform" Hill
HPRA Co-Dictator of the East
for pics of some of my time and money sucking projects
http://garriehill.winkflash.com/
and
http://s58.photobucket.com/albums/g277/cfbb/
and videos
http://vimeo.com/5513519


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alevand
human power expert

USA
2945 Posts

Posted - 08/05/2011 :  17:54:29  Show Profile  Visit alevand's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Yes barium beta decays to the element lanthanum which decays to cerium...

If I use white coroplast, should I paint it with TiO2 or bumper chrome aluminum paint?



C:
Tony Levand

Edited by - alevand on 08/05/2011 18:08:28
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rickmantoo
recumbent enthusiast

USA
274 Posts

Posted - 08/07/2011 :  09:30:41  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Thanks for all the comments on the paint. I understand the concept of the darker colors heating up the the inside of the trike. I am leaning to the yellow for the paint color we will see.

Rick
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rickmantoo
recumbent enthusiast

USA
274 Posts

Posted - 08/07/2011 :  09:48:29  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
OK so I decided to clean up the frame and get it painted.

I first dismantled everything.


Then I sanded and cleaned up all the brazed joints where modifications were made to the main frame. I know the second rule in frame building is That Once the Frame is Painted an Obvious Modification will be Required. I am willing to accept that and I have extra paint!

Here is the main frame and battery support painted blue and drying.


I next gathered up all the other supports and brackets and non-aluminum suspension parts. They were also cleaned up.


I painted these parts silver to match the brushed aluminum on the struts and steering.


I will give there parts a couple of days to cure before reassembling the chassis. Back to getting the body ready for paint.

Rick


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