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rickmantoo
recumbent enthusiast

USA
274 Posts

Posted - 03/26/2010 :  17:22:42  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I spent some time today working on stiffening up the lip that will support the top of the velomobile. I added some wedges between the lip and the side of the body.


Here is a close up of what it looks like on the main tub. I will add a layer or two of fiberglass next. I need to figure out how I will hinge the top before I add reinforcing to the correct places.


Rick W
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warren
human power expert

USA
6050 Posts

Posted - 03/26/2010 :  20:42:23  Show Profile  Visit warren's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Maybe a double arm setup so the entire top hinges up and forward?
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rickmantoo
recumbent enthusiast

USA
274 Posts

Posted - 03/27/2010 :  06:01:20  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Warren
I am planning on having the top hinge sideways so I will be able to step in in front of the front cross tubes. All the velomobiles I have ridden require one to step on the seat and shimmy in I would like to get on the trike the same way with or without the body. That is why the step over at the front wheels is as low as possible.

Rick W
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rickmantoo
recumbent enthusiast

USA
274 Posts

Posted - 03/28/2010 :  15:47:37  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Today I worked on making the hinges and preparing the top. I started out by bending some 1/2 x .035 wall cromoly tubing that will be the main part of the hinge.


I then added a tube that will have nylon bushings to act as the pivot. I brazed a shoulder bolt to 1" wide piece of steel to act as the pivot point. Here are the two partially completed hinges. I still need to add the parts that will attach then to the top. You can also see 2 wedges that will be bonded into the tub to help with hinge alignment


Here is where the hinge will be mounted to the tub, showing it in the top closed position.


Here is the top open position


I then worked on boxing in the top where the hinges will be mounted. I will add some carbon fiber to stiffen up there locations before I bond in the mounting hardware.


I also laid out where the head opening is going to be on the top.


The next step is to lay up the lips on the tub & the top and get the hinges mounted.

Rick W

Edited by - rickmantoo on 03/28/2010 17:19:32
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rickmantoo
recumbent enthusiast

USA
274 Posts

Posted - 03/29/2010 :  16:25:37  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Worked on the main tub today. I added carbon to reinforce the hinge area.


and then added fiberglass to the boxed in lip to stiffen the top of the tub section.


Once everything cures I will remove the remainder of the skeleton and start figuring out how to mount the frame to the body.

Rick W
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rickmantoo
recumbent enthusiast

USA
274 Posts

Posted - 03/30/2010 :  18:13:03  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
So today I wanted to get the pin plates for the hinges glued to the tub. I remover the peel ply from the lip area and prepared the area where the hinge plates will be bonded.
I cleaned up the pin plates and drilled some holes to help the plates stick.


I then mixed up some epoxy and some flox into a paste to use to stick the pin plates to the tub.


I then glued the pin plates to the tub and used some scrap foam to hold things in place.


Here is a picture of the lower tub with the rest of the foam skeleton removed.


Rick W

Edited by - rickmantoo on 03/30/2010 18:15:28
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rickmantoo
recumbent enthusiast

USA
274 Posts

Posted - 03/31/2010 :  17:56:32  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Didn't do much today except clean up to be ready to make the final push to complete the velomobile.
I reassembled the top and bottom sections and placed them on 4 3/4 inch foam blocks to simulate the final fairing height.

From the side


and from the front



Edited by - rickmantoo on 03/31/2010 17:58:12
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warren
human power expert

USA
6050 Posts

Posted - 04/01/2010 :  06:37:02  Show Profile  Visit warren's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Great progress Rick! It looks like a real velomobile now. What color will it be? (and please don't say white) Were you able to get some of the stiction out of the front suspension?

-Warren.
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OpusthePoet
recumbent guru

USA
678 Posts

Posted - 04/01/2010 :  11:26:47  Show Profile  Visit OpusthePoet's Homepage  Reply with Quote
I'm more concerned about steering lock, or to be precise the lack of it. What is your turning radius when your tires are rubbing the fenderwells?

Opus

My gas is up to $.99 a burrito, $5.99 for premium and I'm only getting 20 miles to the regular burrito.
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MartinQS
Starting Member

United Kingdom
5 Posts

Posted - 04/01/2010 :  13:08:36  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Wow great peice of work credit to you i was ib the process of building farings but thought that a velomobile shell making moulds for the fibre glass to far out of my reach at the moment Now seeing your excellent work has set me off

Martin
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MartinQS
Starting Member

United Kingdom
5 Posts

Posted - 04/01/2010 :  13:29:36  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
What type of polysterene did you use to create the ribs?

Martin
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raymondg
recumbent guru

865 Posts

Posted - 04/02/2010 :  11:38:22  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Martin,
Since no once has chimed in on your question I will answer it. The pink foam is a closed cell polystyrene home insulation foam available from large home improvement centers here in the US (and Canada?), like Home Depot, Lowe's etc. It's usually available in thicknesses like 1/2, 3/4, and 1 inch. There are also similar foams that are blue, but some are cast (?) like the pink (easy to work) and some are extruded (harder to work). You can get a tan foil faced foam at such places too, but they are not polystyrene, and should be avoided because they are hard to work and have fiberglass embedded in them which becomes a huge irritant when you cut and sand it.

Just remember you have to use epoxy with polystyrenes, as polyester and vinyl ester resins will attach it (melt it). It's even risky to puting a polyester layer over an epoxy layer, as layups can sometimes be quite porous, and I have seen polyester resins (and other solvents in paints)melt polystyrene foam THROUGH a fully cured layer of epoxy/fiberglass.

Hope this helps,
Raymond
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jpsantell
Starting Member

USA
2 Posts

Posted - 04/02/2010 :  12:07:37  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Rick, That body is all sorts of awesome. I love the WAW look. Would you be willing to share your pattern? I've been contemplating building a WAW styled velomobile myself and this would be as great start.
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MartinQS
Starting Member

United Kingdom
5 Posts

Posted - 04/03/2010 :  01:47:27  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Thanks for getting back to me one more question what grams per square metre fibre glass cloth is 9oz equal to thanks

Martin
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MartinQS
Starting Member

United Kingdom
5 Posts

Posted - 04/03/2010 :  04:41:54  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
What resin catalist etc do i ask for from my fibre glass supplier to use on polystyrene

Martin
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rickmantoo
recumbent enthusiast

USA
274 Posts

Posted - 04/04/2010 :  06:53:53  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Martin

Thanks for the interest, sorry for the delay. I have been out of town and away from my computer. So far this has been a fun project and I like the way things are turning out.

Epoxy is the only type of resin to use on polystyrene. I use the West System epoxy #105 resin and either #205 or #206 hardener. I get it from a home/kit built aircraft supplier.

As for converting the weight of cloth to grams /sq. meter,use one on the on line converters to do it. 9 oz is a medium weight cloth. Get a cloth that will conform to curves.
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rickmantoo
recumbent enthusiast

USA
274 Posts

Posted - 04/04/2010 :  07:03:46  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
jpsantell

Thanks for the interest, I also like the WAW and the Mango and the Go One and....
I wanted a velomobile that I could get in a little easer and one that has a separate frame to make it easer to modify since this is the first fixed trike that I have built.

When Warren and I create a page for this project I will post the design drawings and patterns I used to create this vehicle.
(maybe in a month or so, maybe)

Rick W
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rickmantoo
recumbent enthusiast

USA
274 Posts

Posted - 04/04/2010 :  07:10:48  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Warren

What is with it on the color thing? The first thing Garrie asked me is " What color is it going to be". For now it will be primer gray, but I am leaning toward the blues and greens.

Yes after riding the frame a few miles the stiction is gone from the front suspension. I will be going up in the spring rate to see if makes the trike better in the corners.

Rick W
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rickmantoo
recumbent enthusiast

USA
274 Posts

Posted - 04/04/2010 :  07:15:18  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Opus

I have not measured the radius, right now the wheels hit the front of the seat at maximum turn. The wheel wells are 6 inches deep in the body. And I have to narrow the front of the seat some( about 1 inch) to get it to fit in the body. We will see.

Rick W

Edited by - rickmantoo on 04/04/2010 07:17:04
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MartinQS
Starting Member

United Kingdom
5 Posts

Posted - 04/04/2010 :  11:00:12  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Great many thanks good luck with the build carn`t wait to see her finished

Martin
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melovelo
Starting Member

USA
1 Posts

Posted - 04/04/2010 :  13:08:45  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
You have a really beautiful design there!

When you use the nylon to smooth out the epoxy, is it reusable, or is that only good for a single use? Could you use a plastic film instead?

Will you melt out all of the polystyrene, or will you leave some in to quiet the ride?

Terry
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rickmantoo
recumbent enthusiast

USA
274 Posts

Posted - 04/04/2010 :  15:38:52  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Terry
The peel ply is a one shot thing. I think you could use some plastic but it will not let the excess resin bleed through.

I will leave the foam in to provide additional stiffness to the shell.

Rick W
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rickmantoo
recumbent enthusiast

USA
274 Posts

Posted - 04/04/2010 :  15:59:58  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Today I worked on getting the frame in the bottom body shell.

I first measured where parts of the frame will be sticking out the bottom of the shell. When I revise the frame most of the slots will be filled in. I believe there was a glitch with my CAD program that caused this issue.


Then I laid out the location for the cuts and cut the slots in the bottom of the shell.


I flipped the shell over and took the front wheels off the trike and tried to slide the frame in the tub. With the rear wheel on I could turn the frame enough to get the front end into the wheel wells.


Once I took the rear wheel off I was able to get the frame in the body shell.


Next I will make all the mounts to attach the frame to the shell. I will also modify the steering to side stick from the current center mount as well as a couple of additional mods to the frame. Now it is really starting to look like a velomobile.


Rick W

Edited by - rickmantoo on 04/04/2010 16:01:44
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OpusthePoet
recumbent guru

USA
678 Posts

Posted - 04/06/2010 :  22:50:10  Show Profile  Visit OpusthePoet's Homepage  Reply with Quote
I realize this is a little late, but if you 'glass inside and outside the foam shell you could have dispensed with the steel frame and weight. You could probably just used a 'glass over foam backbone to hang the drive train from and similarly constructed crossbeam to hang the sliding post suspension from, or an arch to support the sliding pillar from above like a MacPherson strut. You would just have had to make the seat mount with enough clearance underneath to let the chain run through.

Opus

My gas is up to $.99 a burrito, $5.99 for premium and I'm only getting 20 miles to the regular burrito.
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rickmantoo
recumbent enthusiast

USA
274 Posts

Posted - 04/07/2010 :  07:17:52  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Opus
Thanks for the comment
Yes one could easily make this body monocoque, I have built several tub bikes before using this process so I know it will work. For this project I wanted a removable frame so I could make changes to the drive train and electric assist easier and also use the trike without the body. Since this is my first fixed trike and my first attempt of integrating electric assist I knew I was going to have to make changes to something.

Rick W

And it is not to late for me to do exactly what you suggested, I would just need to fill in the holes I cut with some foam and...

Edited by - rickmantoo on 04/07/2010 07:20:47
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