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rickmantoo
recumbent enthusiast

USA
274 Posts

Posted - 05/04/2010 :  09:05:10  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Jamieson

By making sure you connect the inner and outer skins it stiffens the body up quite a bit. If I would have used carbon in the tub section the weight would have been the same but it would have been strong enough to act as the frame. I will do that on the next one.

Nice job on your trike.

Warren
Good guess the weight is just under 40 lbs.


Rick W
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rickmantoo
recumbent enthusiast

USA
274 Posts

Posted - 05/06/2010 :  16:54:38  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
So a little more progress Once I got the top all adjusted and the clearances where I wanted them, the inside of the top where I built up the lip to accept the hinges rubbed in the top of the bottom section when the top was being opened. So I removed the fiberglass and sanded out some of the foam and re glassed the inside of the top. now everything clears when the top is being opened and closed.


Next I changed the seat mounting so that the seat will be able to tilt forward. I used some bar stock and a couple of front axle skewers, one quick release and one not.

Here is the mounting with the seat fixed.


And here is one with the seat released and tilting forward.



Next I need to figure out the mods to the steering.

Rick W

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rickmantoo
recumbent enthusiast

USA
274 Posts

Posted - 05/07/2010 :  14:16:12  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Today I worked on making a box to place my Headway 24v 20 ah battery.
Here is the battery and the BMS


I made a box out of 1/2" foam. What you think I would use something else!


Here is where the battery box where it will be located on the frame. This is why I needed to make the seat tilt forward for access.I also rounded over all the corners of the foam box.


Here is the box ready for epoxy


Next I need to finish the battery box and mount it to the frame. I still need to work on the steering also.

Rick W
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Jackrabbit Jimmy
recumbent enthusiast

Canada
290 Posts

Posted - 05/07/2010 :  14:20:49  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Rick

You should have kept quiet about the batteries and said the box was for your lunch. You could have cleaned up in your class at the races.


Jackrabbit Jimmy
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sean costin
human power supergeek

Lesotho
1999 Posts

Posted - 05/07/2010 :  17:48:18  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Rick,
Did you lose your job? -or start taking uppers? How is all this progress possible?
Sean
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alevand
human power expert

USA
2874 Posts

Posted - 05/08/2010 :  05:45:40  Show Profile  Visit alevand's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Batteries might get too warm in the enclosed insulated box, vent holes might be needed.

C:
Tony Levand

Edited by - alevand on 05/08/2010 05:47:27
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rickmantoo
recumbent enthusiast

USA
274 Posts

Posted - 05/08/2010 :  11:14:46  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Jim

Great Idea, Maybe I will just cary first aid supplies and beer.

Sean

Well I have been on reduced hours at work for the last 6 months. But I will nether confirm or deny the thing about the uppers. You know this HPV disease once one relapses, it takes several gallons of epoxy to start the recovery, I am on the home stretch.

Tony
I will be removing the foam and adding another heat sink for the bms. The foam was used just to make the box

Rick W
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rickmantoo
recumbent enthusiast

USA
274 Posts

Posted - 05/08/2010 :  12:01:16  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I continued to work on the battery box today.

I first marked the sides where I will be cutting the box open.


Next I used a vibratory saw to cut the box open. This is one tool that is a must for doing any kind of composite work.


I added a layer of clear packing tale to the lower portion of the box. This will prevent the fiberglass and epoxy from sticking so I can create a lip.


I used some spray glue and stuck the box back together and wrapped the seam with 2" fiberglass tape. I overlapped the bottom with the tape by a 1/2 inch and then wetted it out with some epoxy.


I ordered some sanding blocks and some peal and stick sanding paper so that I can try and get a nice straight finish on the body. This will be coming up next on the to do list, after I work on the steering.


Rick W
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rickmantoo
recumbent enthusiast

USA
274 Posts

Posted - 05/09/2010 :  13:03:19  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Well I did some work on the steering I cut the handlebar width down.
I had marked where the handlebars hit the tub section at full lock and used a pipe cutter to cut the end sections off.


I then added some rubber grips the the bare tube ends.


I am going to take the frame out on some additional test runs to determine the range with no pedaling and with human power added and continue to work on the battery box and the steering u-joint.

Rick W
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rickmantoo
recumbent enthusiast

USA
274 Posts

Posted - 05/15/2010 :  11:15:01  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I continued to work on the battery box.
I removed most of the foam from the inside of the box.


I left some of the foam in the corners to provide some stiffness.


I then added some draw latches to keep the top and bottom together.


I also decided to stiffen up the front suspension by changing out the front springs.
I removed the 3 screws that hold the spring retainer.


I then changed the springs from ones rated for 110 lbs to ones rated for 150 lbs


I also think I need to change the steering ratio and slow the steering down some. At 22-25 mph over rough roads the current steering ratio feels too quick and the trike is a little squirrelly. There may also be something not right with the way the steering works. I will have to look into it.

Rick W

Edited by - rickmantoo on 05/15/2010 11:16:26
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rickmantoo
recumbent enthusiast

USA
274 Posts

Posted - 05/22/2010 :  17:14:01  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I have been working on the steering. The trike had a lot of bump steer when traveling over rough patches in the road (around here that is everywhere) at speeds over 20 MPH. I spent some time researching bump steer and e-mailing John Tetz since he built a trike that also used sliding king pins several years ago. I believe I have everything sorted out now.

I rebuilt both spindles and center steering pivot to make the tie rods perpendicular to the suspension travel. Here is one side with the new tie rod layout.


Here is the modified center pivot.


I then turned my attention to the u-joint for the steering.

I started with a Sears 1/2" u-joint


I cut and brazed it to a couple pieces of 1 1/8" tubing and added some pinch bolts.


Installed it on the trike.


I need to put things back together and take the frame out for another test ride before I mount it in the body.

Rick W
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OpusthePoet
recumbent guru

USA
678 Posts

Posted - 05/23/2010 :  15:48:48  Show Profile  Visit OpusthePoet's Homepage  Reply with Quote
With a sliding kingpin you can't get rid of bump steer, but you can make it consistent. What you have to do is make the tierods at right angles at one end or the other of the suspension travel so that depending on which side of the axle centerline your steering arms are located and which end of the travel you pick for making the tierods perpendicular you get either consistent toe-in for bumps, or consistent toe-out. Toe-in is more stable most of the time.

Opus

My gas is up to $.99 a burrito, $5.99 for premium and I'm only getting 20 miles to the regular burrito.
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rickmantoo
recumbent enthusiast

USA
274 Posts

Posted - 05/25/2010 :  07:53:53  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Opus

Thanks for the information. That is exactly what I have tried to do. I thing it is harder to redo something then to build it right the first time. I believe I got the steering the best it will be.

Rick W
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OpusthePoet
recumbent guru

USA
678 Posts

Posted - 05/25/2010 :  15:55:12  Show Profile  Visit OpusthePoet's Homepage  Reply with Quote
You just need to sit in it to see how much it travels static (aka sag) and then set zero toe at that ride height. you'll get toe out on droop and toe in on bump and if you set the tie rods right the toe in will be non-linear so that at full bump you will have maximum toe in and most of the toe change will be in the first half of travel. Toe out on droop is not as bad as having it in bump because the droop unloads the tire so that the change in toe won't affect direction as much as bump.

Opus

My gas is up to $.99 a burrito, $5.99 for premium and I'm only getting 20 miles to the regular burrito.
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andrewchenpo
Starting Member

Canada
33 Posts

Posted - 05/28/2010 :  13:22:56  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Rick

I notice you don't do any bondo work with the foam before you lay on the fiberglass. Are you using epoxy resin? When I used polyester resin in the past it would melt/dissolve the foam, is there something I'm missing?

Thanks,

Andrew Hartz
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rickmantoo
recumbent enthusiast

USA
274 Posts

Posted - 05/29/2010 :  12:33:45  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Andrew
Not missing anything. I use epoxy resins with the Styrofoam the polyester resins melt the foam like you found out. If you want to use polyester resins then one needs to change the type of foam to a urethane foam there are others also. I pay the extra for epoxy ( about 3 times more the polyester) because it also has low odor and I can change the working time depending on what hardener I mix in.

Rick W

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rickmantoo
recumbent enthusiast

USA
274 Posts

Posted - 05/29/2010 :  12:38:44  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Opus
I set the steering at the center of the suspension travel. On paper the maximum tie rod change will be .008 at the extremes. I have taken the trike out for some testing and the bump steer is not noticeable since I made the changes. Thanks for the input.

Rick W
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rickmantoo
recumbent enthusiast

USA
274 Posts

Posted - 05/29/2010 :  12:55:40  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Well I think it is time that I get back to finishing up the body. I have the frame working nicely now.
I added some bearings to the top of the springs in the front suspension to help reduce the turning stiction. Here is a picture if the bearing and the 2 hardened washers I used.


I also ordered a quick release for the torque ram on the Rholff hub. I had to get them from England. Fast service got the parts quicker then some fabric I ordered from Georgia
Here are the parts.


I had to add a small tube offset from the rear swing arm to get the quick release receiver to line up. This will make installing the rear wheel a lot easier when the frame is in the body.


I also mocked up a windscreen. I am not sure about this so this is as far as I am going to proceed until after I get some miles on the completed vehicle.


Rick W

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rickmantoo
recumbent enthusiast

USA
274 Posts

Posted - 05/29/2010 :  14:21:43  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
So I have been showing close up picture of the mod to the frame I thought I would post some pictures of the finished not painted frame.

Here is the drive side of the frame showing the battery location. I am still working on finishing up the new battery box.


This picture is of the e-motor side of the frame.


And here is a front picture.


Rick W
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rickmantoo
recumbent enthusiast

USA
274 Posts

Posted - 05/31/2010 :  11:49:47  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Finished the battery box, except for final paint. I installed a 50 amp automotive switch in the box to be able to disconnect the power from the controller. I still need to finalize the attachment to the trike. Bungee is only temporary.


Been working on staining and finishing some new doors for the house so the sanding on the body will resume once the doors are installed.

Rick W
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rickmantoo
recumbent enthusiast

USA
274 Posts

Posted - 06/20/2010 :  16:04:45  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Finally got back to working on the velomobile body. Garrie Hill drove up to partake in the fun and games. The plan was to spray the body parts Duratec polyester high build primer. This was to fill in the cloth patter and make the parts one color to get a visual on the final shape.

The first step was to clean up and drape the inside of the garage with plastic to keep the over spray off the tools and stuff. I worked on that Friday and Saturday.


Garrie arrived Sunday morning and we finished getting the top and tub ready for the primer.


We then got all the supplies ready for the mixing and spraying


We sprayed a little more 1/2 of the gallon can of primer in 4-20 oz batches. Cleaning the spray gun between each batch.


Here is the top after the Duratec has started to set.


I will let everything cure for a day or so and start block sanding and filling in the low spots. I will then do one more spraying of the Duratec before the final paint color.

Rick W
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warren
human power expert

USA
6050 Posts

Posted - 06/22/2010 :  09:03:50  Show Profile  Visit warren's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Wow, looks great!
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rickmantoo
recumbent enthusiast

USA
274 Posts

Posted - 06/26/2010 :  16:55:42  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
So I started on sanding the Duritec primer to find the low spots on the top of the body. I used several different sanding blocks and 80 grit paper.

After sanding the low spots start to revile themselves.


I then mixed up some glazing putty and applied it to the low areas. I then sanded and applied more putty. This putty on putty off lasted for almost 4 hours.


I then applied another coat of primer to see the progress. It looks like I still have several areas that will need a little attention. But I am pleased with the progress.


Next I need to do the same thing to the tub portion of the body.

Rick W
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Jackrabbit Jimmy
recumbent enthusiast

Canada
290 Posts

Posted - 06/27/2010 :  04:03:02  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Rick;

Your attention to detail is admirable.



Jackrabbit Jimmy
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rickmantoo
recumbent enthusiast

USA
274 Posts

Posted - 07/03/2010 :  16:07:01  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Spent some more time sanding the last couple of days and I have the body in pretty good shape. Here is the top waiting for me to finish the lower section of the body.


Here is the tub section before I primed it.


Here is the body ready for me to mount the frame. I should be able to do that in a day or so.


View from the back.


and looking straight on the front


Rick W
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