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rickmantoo
recumbent enthusiast

USA
274 Posts

Posted - 10/08/2010 :  13:47:28  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Taylor

I decided to go with brighter 12v vehicle lights for the Vm. I have a couple sets of the other lights I could send you.

Rick W
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Velocity Velos
Starting Member

USA
13 Posts

Posted - 10/10/2010 :  00:51:12  Show Profile  Visit Velocity Velos's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Sure, Thanks! Email me at taylor@velocityvelos.com and I'll send you my address.

Taylor Wilhour

Velocity Velos
www.velocityvelos.com
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mhelander
recumbent enthusiast

Finland
383 Posts

Posted - 10/19/2010 :  04:56:00  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Rick,

Do you have any weight figures about:
- trike (sans electric)
- electric assist (mainly battery pack, motor, heaviest part)
- fairing.

Your frame construction is interesting, might work well here far-far-away where snow is falling and weather is colder half the year. Suspension with springs (instead of elastomers etc) works also when cold.

Electric assist with insulated battery box would compensate nicely while three (smallish) wheels are adding a lot in friction side...

Cheers,
-Mika
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25hz
human power supergeek

Canada
1223 Posts

Posted - 10/19/2010 :  06:46:15  Show Profile  Visit 25hz's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Hey Rick, was your velo air-mobile for the Ohio event or you still haven't given it it's fitrst "official" outing?

Also, was it you and I that were talking about a fairing design you had made, that was looking for a home?
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rickmantoo
recumbent enthusiast

USA
274 Posts

Posted - 10/22/2010 :  07:49:17  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Tim

I am not sure exactly what design we talked about but I do have 2 or 3 other Vm design concepts that I developed body templates for but chose not to build. They are probably at the 90% completed stage and would need some additional effort to make them buildable.

Rick W
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25hz
human power supergeek

Canada
1223 Posts

Posted - 10/22/2010 :  09:44:51  Show Profile  Visit 25hz's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Rick, I think you mentioned a lowracer tailbox, or something like that.

Remember, you'll need another velomobile for your wife too :)
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rickmantoo
recumbent enthusiast

USA
274 Posts

Posted - 10/22/2010 :  11:15:14  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Mika

I can provide some estimates
Body 45 lb. 20.5kg.
frame 33 lb. 15 kg.
Electric stuff, 18 lb. 8.2 kg.

The springs for the fromt suspension work good in all the temperture extremes here in Michigan USA.

Rick W
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rickmantoo
recumbent enthusiast

USA
274 Posts

Posted - 11/20/2010 :  11:55:16  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Well it has been a while since I have been able to do any additional work on the velo. It has been working great but I really need to get going on the lighting system. I am going to make a clear lens cover the the tail and brake light with the help of Garrie Hill. The fist step is to sand and tape off the rear section of the body where the tail lights will be mounted.


I taped off the area and applied sever coats of wax and used some spray mold release.


I then applied the first of 9 layers of fiberglass cloth. The first layer was .75 oz veil cloth and I made sure there were no air bubbles.


I let the first layer of veil and epoxy start to gel and then added 8 more layers of 8 oz cloth.
I added 4 layers let the epoxy cure for a day, sanded and then added another 4 layers. After it cured for another day I removed the tail mold and will send it to Garrie where he will cast a mail plug and then vacuum form a clear tail lens.


Hopefully Garrie will take some pictures of the process he will use to make the clear cover and post them here.

Rick W

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Craigl
Starting Member

USA
3 Posts

Posted - 12/02/2010 :  10:40:05  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Great build Rick. I can't PM you as I don't use outlook for mail. I would like to know if you Would be willing to share your cut pattern for the foam. I would like to build a shell as it is damm cold here in Minnesota.

Thanks

Craig
pewterworks@gmail.com
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rickmantoo
recumbent enthusiast

USA
274 Posts

Posted - 12/03/2010 :  08:09:04  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Craig
I should be able to provide the files as a PDF for you. It may take a day or two to pull them together. I will PM to discuss.

Rick
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Craigl
Starting Member

USA
3 Posts

Posted - 12/03/2010 :  09:41:55  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Rick
Thank you so much

Craig
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Garrie L Hill
human power supergeek

USA
1689 Posts

Posted - 12/27/2010 :  16:47:45  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Rick sent me the female cast of his tail light area. I'm going to modify it into a cavity style vacuum forming mold. The formed plastic part from this mold will then exactly replicate the outside surface of Rick's velo. Once he cuts out the tail opening for the lights, this "lens" will fit perfectly flush to the surface.

Step 1
Rick used a marker to designate the final lens trim line. I rough trimmed ( bandsaw) the mold a few inches beyond Rick's line. This will delineate the new mold flange area.


Garrie "carbon based lifeform" Hill
HPRA Co-Dictator of the East
for pics of some of my time and money sucking projects
http://garriehill.winkflash.com/
and
http://s58.photobucket.com/albums/g277/cfbb/
and videos
http://vimeo.com/5513519


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Garrie L Hill
human power supergeek

USA
1689 Posts

Posted - 12/27/2010 :  16:50:25  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Here's a view of the inside of the mold to be.





Garrie "carbon based lifeform" Hill
HPRA Co-Dictator of the East
for pics of some of my time and money sucking projects
http://garriehill.winkflash.com/
and
http://s58.photobucket.com/albums/g277/cfbb/
and videos
http://vimeo.com/5513519


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Garrie L Hill
human power supergeek

USA
1689 Posts

Posted - 12/27/2010 :  16:53:41  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Step 2

Now I start building up a nonporous flange all around the mold. This flat flange will be the airtight clamping surface for the plastic to be formed.



Garrie "carbon based lifeform" Hill
HPRA Co-Dictator of the East
for pics of some of my time and money sucking projects
http://garriehill.winkflash.com/
and
http://s58.photobucket.com/albums/g277/cfbb/
and videos
http://vimeo.com/5513519


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Garrie L Hill
human power supergeek

USA
1689 Posts

Posted - 12/27/2010 :  17:08:21  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Step 3

After building up a thickness of 3/16" in the flange, and letting the epoxy completely cure, I bandsawed the perimeter to a more-or-less uniform width. A vacuum hose fitting was bonded to the deepest point of the mold.
Since we decided that the taillight lens would be made from .032" thick plastic, I drilled a vacuum port hole through the fitting into ( and through) the mold. The hole is .025" diameter. By making the hole diameter smaller than the thickness of the plastic being formed, the plastic will not be draw down into the vacuum hole.



Garrie "carbon based lifeform" Hill
HPRA Co-Dictator of the East
for pics of some of my time and money sucking projects
http://garriehill.winkflash.com/
and
http://s58.photobucket.com/albums/g277/cfbb/
and videos
http://vimeo.com/5513519


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LunaticFringe
recumbent enthusiast

USA
366 Posts

Posted - 12/29/2010 :  10:12:48  Show Profile  Visit LunaticFringe's Homepage  Reply with Quote
That's pretty cool!

Jeff in Tucson
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Garrie L Hill
human power supergeek

USA
1689 Posts

Posted - 01/12/2011 :  19:01:57  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Here is a video of the lens being vacuum formed.
http://vimeo.com/18730038


Garrie "carbon based lifeform" Hill
HPRA Co-Dictator of the East
for pics of some of my time and money sucking projects
http://garriehill.winkflash.com/
and
http://s58.photobucket.com/albums/g277/cfbb/
and videos
http://vimeo.com/5513519


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Larry Lem
human power expert

South Sandwich Islands
2523 Posts

Posted - 01/12/2011 :  21:37:32  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
groovy video, thanks for sharing.

I take it when you make head bubbles, you do not draw the plastic down to ever contact the mold surface so as to minimize the distortion. That is what we found at George Leone's workshop this summer.

Larry Lem
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Garrie L Hill
human power supergeek

USA
1689 Posts

Posted - 01/13/2011 :  05:49:41  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Larry;
The quality of the bubble is primarily governed by two variables:

1) The quality of the surface of the mold. Just as in forming a fairing from a female mold, if there are waves and pits in the mold surface, there will be waves and pimples in the molded parts. I spend lots of time on getting the mold surface perfect. The plastic is formed completely down into the mold. Anything less in depth of draw is inconsistent.

2) The speed of forming. In all plastic deformable materials ( my Real Life Real Money Job TM is in deep drawing metal ) the rate of forming is related to the material thickness/depth of draw/material physical characteristics/material temperature. In the case of the Varna canopies, I form at the lower end of the temperature deformation band, and form slowly. The Varna canopies, from PETG plastic sheet, take almost 25 seconds to draw into the mold.

You have seen the quality of my Varna bubbles.

Garrie "carbon based lifeform" Hill
HPRA Co-Dictator of the East
for pics of some of my time and money sucking projects
http://garriehill.winkflash.com/
and
http://s58.photobucket.com/albums/g277/cfbb/
and videos
http://vimeo.com/5513519


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teubner
recumbent guru

796 Posts

Posted - 01/13/2011 :  10:28:14  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
The Zzip guy told me he used felt in/on the mold.
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rickmantoo
recumbent enthusiast

USA
274 Posts

Posted - 01/14/2011 :  08:20:32  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I decided to make some changes to the front suspension of the velomobile before I finish the body work and electric. I decide to change out the sliding pillar front suspension and install a McPherson strut style suspension. I am also going to increase the front track to 28.5 from 27. This will allow me to increase the room between the inside of the front wheel wells by 1-2 . I will also be modifying the front boom to make it adjustable and also raising it up 1.5.

I have worked up the design for the modifications and will start making parts this weekend.


Rick
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Larry Lem
human power expert

South Sandwich Islands
2523 Posts

Posted - 01/14/2011 :  13:22:14  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Don't mean to hijack offensively,

But thank-you, Garrie.
When trying to make windshields with George Leone this summer for Cyclops, we didn't have a female mold with a good finish, as George learned from previous attempts that the windshield should not touch the mold surface for the best finish. So I built up my streamliner plug in the windshield area with an inch (?) of foam before making the windshield female mold. It then didn't make sense that we needed to have a specific female mold shape since we weren't going to draw down that far. All that mattered was the outline of the toilet bowl. We used 0.125 PETG, George had big-ass heat lamps, and we pulled the vaccuum from below. We went very slowly, and took maybe 5 minutes for the draw, but we still got localized thinning near top at the flange.

We concluded that one way to make windshields if not pulling down to the surface would be to simply use an adequately-sized box, attach the desired shape toilet bowl flange at the top, then try to draw down to a consistent depth. Make 10 of them, take the ones that look the same, make the plug for the full bike using one, and use the others as a windshield and spares.

But I would like to try your method, making the windshield female surface smooth and pulling the windshield down to the surface. Then we'd start with the shape we wanted (rather than making the streamliner plug afterwards) and hopefully be able to repeat the process consistently.

Looks like I have some experimenting to do this summer. For now, I found that a standard Windwrap fairing model has the right shape and am cutting it to fit.

Larry Lem
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Garrie L Hill
human power supergeek

USA
1689 Posts

Posted - 01/14/2011 :  17:08:46  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Larry;
No offense taken. Eighth inch material?! OK, why so thick? .032" thick in a uniformly convex shape with perimeter support via a rabbet would be more than adequate I believe.

Garrie "carbon based lifeform" Hill
HPRA Co-Dictator of the East
for pics of some of my time and money sucking projects
http://garriehill.winkflash.com/
and
http://s58.photobucket.com/albums/g277/cfbb/
and videos
http://vimeo.com/5513519


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Larry Lem
human power expert

South Sandwich Islands
2523 Posts

Posted - 01/14/2011 :  18:23:38  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
These are our giant nose bubbles we are forming. I'll have to measure again to see how thin they became, how thin the Windwrap is, and make some more estimate as to how thin we could withstand. Neither George nor I are focusing on minimizing weight at this point. It has to work, first. (I already had a problem in that department in 2010.)

Larry Lem
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rickmantoo
recumbent enthusiast

USA
274 Posts

Posted - 01/15/2011 :  07:14:25  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Larry
When Dave Johnson and I are doing larger free blown bubbles we built a large oven and used the guts from an old electric stove.
If you look close you can see a 22x 46 inch bubble in the top


Here is a bunch of canopies we did for the Great White streamliner we used .065 petg


Rick
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