www.recumbents.com - Trike time (see pg 5 for build 1)
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 Trike time (see pg 5 for build 1)
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warren
human power expert

USA
6265 Posts

Posted - 12/11/2017 :  09:25:53  Show Profile  Visit warren's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Thanks!

Yesterday I tack-brazed the kingpin head tubes and the cruciform in place. Yes, I had to do a bunch of measuring and re-measuring to make sure it was all straight, but I didn't build a special trike jig. I hope I don't regret that decision!



Today I added the wheels and eyeballed it and did some measurements to make sure all the angles are correct. It looks pretty good. The next step will be to build the Ackerman steering and brake brackets and then add them to the kingpins.

Edited by - warren on 12/11/2017 18:28:24
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carolina
recumbent guru

USA
842 Posts

Posted - 12/11/2017 :  14:17:48  Show Profile  Visit carolina's Homepage  Reply with Quote
True tank steer like Ian simmís trikes?





óóóóóó
velosRus.com

Edited by - carolina on 12/11/2017 14:25:58
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warren
human power expert

USA
6265 Posts

Posted - 12/11/2017 :  15:19:02  Show Profile  Visit warren's Homepage  Reply with Quote
No, I'm going to make it OSS.
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warren
human power expert

USA
6265 Posts

Posted - 12/16/2017 :  13:24:51  Show Profile  Visit warren's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Finished brazing the steering tubes to the cruciform. Measured the ackerman angles (15 degrees).
Cut and brazed up the steering brackets with stubs for the drum brakes and 6mm T-nuts to attach the steering linkage and added them to the kingpins.



Reassembled the headsets and re-added the wheels to check out how it looks. Meh. Apparently I shouldn't have finished brazing the steering tubes to the cruciform. I will need to unbraze the left headtube and tweek it a bit as the wheel is not quite vertical. This will also fix the rear wheel being not quite vertical. Sigh.



Ordered the 6mm rod end bearings.

Actual track width - 27 inches.

Edited by - warren on 12/16/2017 13:29:19
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Speedbiker
human power expert

USA
3835 Posts

Posted - 12/16/2017 :  13:32:42  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Looks great! Kudos on the OSS. It the best for aerodydamics.
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warren
human power expert

USA
6265 Posts

Posted - 12/24/2017 :  12:16:15  Show Profile  Visit warren's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Iíve been sick the past week, so havenít felt like working on the trike.

Next step is to mount the seat and braze up the joints that I tack brazed. Then Iíll take the kingpins back apart and trim the steerer tube, and then start work on the steering. I have the rod end bearings and a nice CF tube to use as the tie bar. Iíll build a new steerer tube for the OSS steering and add the steering linkage.

Fun!
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warren
human power expert

USA
6265 Posts

Posted - 12/31/2017 :  14:43:25  Show Profile  Visit warren's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Despite having an entire week off work, I didnít do any work on the trike until this weekend. I brazed up the rest of the frame tubes and trimmed the steerer tubes. I wasnít able to find any 6mm coupler nuts for the steering linkages at the local hardware stores so will be using T-nuts instead.

Update - Garrie sent me a link to the coupler nuts on mcmaster.com, and I ordered them. Should be better than the T-nuts for the steering. I am going to try to use all metric hardware rather than the 1/4 x 20 stuff that is cheap and easily available.

Update 2 - Wow Mcmaster Carr is fast. I already have the coupler nuts. It's still stupid cold in the garage. Calculated that 5 layers of CF in the boom will make it about .1" thick which should be thick enough. I'm starting to set up to make the CF boom and steering linkages in the basement.

Edited by - warren on 01/04/2018 14:57:38
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Terry
Starting Member

Canada
49 Posts

Posted - 01/04/2018 :  17:49:10  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Warren, I 'd like to see how you are making the boom. Will it slide inside the frame tube?
Using pinch bolts?
How are you dealing with the BB shell?
Terry
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warren
human power expert

USA
6265 Posts

Posted - 01/05/2018 :  07:28:03  Show Profile  Visit warren's Homepage  Reply with Quote
It's sliding over the frame tube and yes using pinch bolts. Plans are to fasten it to the existing BB assembly that I chopped off of the donor bike in the same manner. I did notice that I have an aluminum BB shell in my parts bin though, so I may just use that instead which would save a pound or more.
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carolina
recumbent guru

USA
842 Posts

Posted - 01/05/2018 :  09:36:27  Show Profile  Visit carolina's Homepage  Reply with Quote
I had a catrike 700 one time, when l switched to velomobiels i now like square booms. But there is no race tracks here and not close on weight savings as racer.

velosRus.com
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warren
human power expert

USA
6265 Posts

Posted - 01/06/2018 :  09:11:52  Show Profile  Visit warren's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Laid up some steering related C.F. parts and waxed a tube Saturday morning. Fiddly bits.

Update - Fiddly bits turned out well. Need to make more Fiddly bits. Punched approximately one million weep holes in the heat shrink tube that will be used to compress the big scary CF tube.



Aluminum tube internal mold technique 1.0
1) Suspend tube to allow easy access while performing layup (bike stand)
2) Wax tube
3) Cut 36" x 36" chunk of CF.
4) Coat tube in epoxy so CF will stick to it.
4) Wind on the first overlapping layer of CF and coat in epoxy
5) Repeat until complete, try to keep it tight.
6) Slide heat shrink tube over layup. I suspect this will be tough.
7) Use heat gun to shrink carefully
8) Watch expensive epoxy drip out.
9) Wait for cure, remove heat shrink
10) Put tube outside on a cold day (0 F). Strike a few times to release, pull Aluminum tube out.
11) If that doesn't work, pack tube with dry ice...

Edited by - warren on 01/10/2018 18:05:00
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Speedbiker
human power expert

USA
3835 Posts

Posted - 01/10/2018 :  19:12:07  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Nice!!!
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warren
human power expert

USA
6265 Posts

Posted - 01/11/2018 :  17:49:41  Show Profile  Visit warren's Homepage  Reply with Quote
The tube is laid up now. It took less time than I thought (about an hour). 1 sq yard of CF plus 16 squirts of West Systems epoxy. I'm not impressed with the heat shrink tubing. I think it's compressing the part a little, and it's not smooth. Also the tiny holes don't seem to be weeping any epoxy. We'll see what happens.

Later I wrapped it in a layer of bleeder cloth and then a couple layer of tightly wound packing tape. I can see it weeping now. It may not be pretty but at least the layers will be compressed.

Edited by - warren on 01/11/2018 18:06:37
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Speedbiker
human power expert

USA
3835 Posts

Posted - 01/11/2018 :  19:15:15  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Looking forward to the results....
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warren
human power expert

USA
6265 Posts

Posted - 01/11/2018 :  20:30:07  Show Profile  Visit warren's Homepage  Reply with Quote
It was nice and warm the past couple days, too warm to shrink the aluminum tube outside. So, I turned down the outside thermostat and it should be 0 degrees by the weekend...
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Speedbiker
human power expert

USA
3835 Posts

Posted - 01/11/2018 :  22:49:30  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Thanks!
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harv
recumbent enthusiast

413 Posts

Posted - 01/12/2018 :  05:35:29  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Warren, you have a short top steering link and a another lower link. Could you eliminate the full length lower steering rod, by using a pair of top steering links?
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warren
human power expert

USA
6265 Posts

Posted - 01/12/2018 :  08:18:08  Show Profile  Visit warren's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Hi Harv - That would be easier but I think the angle of the rods would change, which would throw off the geometry.
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Terry
Starting Member

Canada
49 Posts

Posted - 01/12/2018 :  10:11:31  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by warren

The tube is laid up now. It took less time than I thought (about an hour). 1 sq yard of CF plus 16 squirts of West Systems epoxy. I'm not impressed with the heat shrink tubing. I think it's compressing the part a little, and it's not smooth. Also the tiny holes don't seem to be weeping any epoxy. We'll see what happens.

Later I wrapped it in a layer of bleeder cloth and then a couple layer of tightly wound packing tape. I can see it weeping now. It may not be pretty but at least the layers will be compressed.



Warren, I am experimenting with the same technique on the carbon boom for my wood WAW. Although I made the tubes with an inner bladder and a 1 1/2 " pvc tube, joining them and compressing with tape.
I have been just wrapping the tape sticky side down and then poking holes after it is wrapped! So far so good!
16 squirts seems like a lot!
Fingers crossed !!
Terry
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Tom Schneider
recumbent enthusiast

121 Posts

Posted - 01/12/2018 :  10:48:13  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by warren

Hi Harv - That would be easier but I think the angle of the rods would change, which would throw off the geometry.



You could attach the other tie-rod to the bottom of steering arm with the same bolt that attaches the other side tie-rod to the top. The geometry would probably be OK.
Is the steering reversed, or am I looking at it wrong?

Tom
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warren
human power expert

USA
6265 Posts

Posted - 01/12/2018 :  14:29:49  Show Profile  Visit warren's Homepage  Reply with Quote
I guess I'm not understanding that first sentence Tom. OMG! YES the steering is reversed! How did I not notice that?
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Tom Schneider
recumbent enthusiast

121 Posts

Posted - 01/12/2018 :  15:28:23  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Another tie-rod, same as the one connecting the wheel to the steering arm, for the wheel on the other side to connect to the steering arm. This would replace the long tie-rod connecting the wheels. Your photo shows the tie-rods as parallel, so the geometry should probably be good.


Edited by - Tom Schneider on 01/12/2018 15:34:59
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LunaticFringe
recumbent enthusiast

USA
495 Posts

Posted - 01/12/2018 :  19:01:37  Show Profile  Visit LunaticFringe's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Cool project!

Jeff
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alevand
human power expert

USA
3208 Posts

Posted - 01/13/2018 :  07:31:03  Show Profile  Visit alevand's Homepage  Reply with Quote
I think you can just turn it to the other side of the toggle, something like 135 degrees to the tangent, the Pitman arm might need to be a little longer.

C:
Tony Levand

Edited by - alevand on 01/13/2018 07:32:17
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warren
human power expert

USA
6265 Posts

Posted - 01/13/2018 :  08:39:52  Show Profile  Visit warren's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Hmm, I'll try that Tony and also I have a complicated solution if that doesn't work.

Terry, I would be interested in a tutorial in how you made your tubes.

I removed the compression layers from outside the CF tube, Yes, it's wrinkly. Hey, it's a look! This morning it was 3 degrees F outside. Cold enough? After leaving the tube outside a while I brought it in and tapped it with a hammer. Part did not fall off. Smacked it on some wood to see if gravity would do some work for me. Hey, it moved! Put it back outside a while then clamped the aluminum tube in my vice and tugged on the CF part. It wasn't easy but it slid off! Yay! And yes, the CF tube does slide over the steel boom tube fairly easily.



Here's one complicated solution to the steering conundrum.


Also I like the ICE VTX remote steering and think I could use that for this trike. I need to find one to take some measurements from so I can replicate it. It doesn't appear to use traditional Ackerman?


Edited by - warren on 01/13/2018 10:01:02
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