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 Bafang 1000 watt HD didn't work on my ICE
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Gman
New Member

USA
56 Posts

Posted - 12/12/2016 :  05:41:37  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
If anyone is thinking about putting the new Bafang 1000 watt heavy duty mid drive motor on your trike, read this! I had one installed about a month ago on my ICE Sprint FSX tadpole trike. The good-it was incredibly powerful! I could easily cruise at 34 mph on flat ground. It climbed super steep hills like they didn't exist. It was dead silent. I had the 52 volt battery mounted to the terracycle battery mount. It was awesome-for one or two rides. It's a great system-for an upright. It was actually way too powerful. I broke my brand new chain four times! It would engage and was so strong it would pull the chain right over the cogs in my brand new steel tooth cassette. The front boom Would bend scarily and the final straw was when it literally tore my rear derailure off! Great system but not for trikes unfortunately.
As if this writing (Dec 12, 2016) it's come off and I'm having the old reliable -the new Bionx DV 500 installed with two batteries. The recumbent shop that's doing it specializes in electric assists and e-bikes (Bulk of their business) and showed me definitive data that the boinx is by far the number one electric assist motor of any kind. The new DV 500 has a larger diameter placing the magnets further from the hub, acting like a long lever and providing tons of hill climbing torque. They tested it against the Bafang 750 mid drive crankset motor and its performance was as good or slightly better, especially for climbing steep hills which this new motor does better than any other hub motor available. I will write about it when I get it back! I'm also going to put a wiring setup and controller on my giro 20 and tour easy so I can swap out the rear wheels and have three electric bikes! I spoke to Denton at easy racers on Friday (Yes Easy Racers is alive and well no matter what the curmudgeons on Bentruderonline make up about them!) and ordered a new frame for my tour easy with the rear disc brake dropout (Mine us older and doesn't accommodate a rear disc brake) so it too can use the motor!(Its built into a 26" rear wheel with an 11-36 nine speed cassette from Sunrace and a disk brake rotor for my TRP spyre hydo cable actuated brake) Totally excited to go electric! I know it will get me out there commuting every day instead of three times per week.

Former pro athlete, two time Olympic team member, 9 years on pro circuit, 6 times crossing USA by bicycle. Bent since 89

Edited by - Gman on 12/12/2016 06:36:58

warren
human power expert

USA
6120 Posts

Posted - 12/13/2016 :  07:46:57  Show Profile  Visit warren's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Wow, that sounds like it's pulling over 3000 watts to do that! I have a mid-drive but it's driving the rear wheel through a disk brake mounted adapter. E-drive just freewheels when I'm not using it. Works great and no chain breakage. You should be able to change your Bafang to do that.
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Gman
New Member

USA
56 Posts

Posted - 12/18/2016 :  11:34:21  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I get what you mean Warren! The motor was the latest and newest from bafang and is a 1000 watt mid drive that has perks of 2700 watts. That's what the problem was. It was mostly during typical
Cal high stress moments like first starting off and steep climbs where the motor would spike up to 2500 watts when I squeezed the throttle for a little more help. I also learned the hard way that I needed to be in my 36 tooth cog on my rear cassette when starting off. I had the 42 tooth front chainring option installed with the motor which is as small as will fit. That combination was just low enough for me to get started from a dead stop on an incline without snapping the chain. Just low enough. I started off in the next lower cog (34 teeth) and snapped the chain twice. Both mistakes on my part where I thought I was in the 36 cog but wasn't. I also found that in my smallest 11 tooth cog, even when descending, the motor was too strong and it would pull the chain over the tops of the cogs and make an aweful klunking noise. Don't get me wrong it was a super nice setup. Extremely powerful, decent range of about 46 miles in assist level one. I never used more than level one of the five because Ben at level 2, the problems were amplified. I did go into the controller and set it to the street legal 750 watts which is as low as I could but it would still peak out in the 2000 watt range and cays the same problems. In fact it was in that setting when the rear derailure was literally torn out of the frame, bolt and all!
The apparent solution is the newest boinx DV 500 hub motor. If you google it you will see what I. Ean. I've been traveling abroad and across the US and haven't been to pick it up yet but hope to do so before New Years. I will give it a whirl and report back

Former pro athlete, two time Olympic team member, 9 years on pro circuit, 6 times crossing USA by bicycle. Bent since 89
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Gman
New Member

USA
56 Posts

Posted - 12/18/2016 :  11:36:16  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Gman

I get what you mean Warren! The motor was the latest and newest from bafang and is a 1000 watt mid drive that has perks of 2700 watts. That's what the problem was. It was mostly during typical
Cal high stress moments like first starting off and steep climbs where the motor would spike up to 2500 watts when I squeezed the throttle for a little more help. I also learned the hard way that I needed to be in my 36 tooth cog on my rear cassette when starting off. I had the 42 tooth front chainring option installed with the motor which is as small as will fit. That combination was just low enough for me to get started from a dead stop on an incline without snapping the chain. Just low enough. I started off in the next lower cog (34 teeth) and snapped the chain twice. Both mistakes on my part where I thought I was in the 36 cog but wasn't. I also found that in my smallest 11 tooth cog, even when descending, the motor was too strong and it would pull the chain over the tops of the cogs and make an aweful klunking noise. Don't get me wrong it was a super nice setup. Extremely powerful, decent range of about 46 miles in assist level one. I never used more than level one of the five because Ben at level 2, the problems were amplified. I did go into the controller and set it to the street legal 750 watts which is as low as I could but it would still peak out in the 2000 watt range and cays the same problems. In fact it was in that setting when the rear derailure was literally torn out of the frame, bolt and all!
The apparent solution is the newest boinx DV 500 hub motor. If you google it you will see what I. Ean. I've been traveling abroad and across the US and haven't been to pick it up yet but hope to do so before New Years. I will give it a whirl and report back

Former pro athlete, two time Olympic team member, 9 years on pro circuit, 6 times crossing USA by bicycle. Bent since 89

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Gman
New Member

USA
56 Posts

Posted - 01/05/2017 :  15:40:54  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Ok so I now have about 235 miles in the new bionx DV500 hub motor. My first and current impression is a huge WOW" first off its literally completely silent. Secondly it has gobs and gobs of power. To me it feels like the 1000 watt mid drive I just removed. The beauty of it is that it literally puts no added stress on the drivetrain on the trike which was the problem with the mid drive motor. So far I am averaging 60-65 miles on a charge and that's with me (225 lbs), panniers full of commuting stuff and a commute riddled with extremely steep and longish climbs in sub zero temps. It's super smooth and the new console is very easy to use and comprehend. Well worth the few extra bucks. You can tell it's not some made in China crap but a really high quality piece that's built to last and requires no maintenance. My plan is to install a second harness and controller for my tour easy so I can swap the rear wheel motor and batteries between the two. I love this motor! Much better at climbing than I expected. It's also pretty lightweight. I like that the rear wheel is a regular ( Albeit very heavy duty) wheel and has a disc brake hub for my rear parking disc brake. The spokes are not attached to,the motor but rather to a normal,looking hub flange so the wheel,is very robust. I plan to attach my flevobike spandex reflective wheel cover and hide the battery so I can fly by my roadie buds without the, knowing I'm electric! Kudos to "The Electric Spoke" recumbent shop,in Verona NJ for a job well done! I highly recommend this setup for those who want to take the added weight and drag of a third wheel out of the equation. I rarely use more than assis.t level one. It does have a cool little thumb throttle which I use when starting off at a traffic light so I can chirp the rear tire and fly through the intersections with my life! . It also has the brake sensor and shift sensor that shut the motor off when braking and shifting. It also has the cool,regenerative braking which charges the battery on long decents. Very cool setup. I find that in assist level,one I am even faster than on my carbon aero. If I use the highest setting it's almost too fast

Former pro athlete, two time Olympic team member, 9 years on pro circuit, 6 times crossing USA by bicycle. Bent since 89

Edited by - Gman on 01/05/2017 15:42:39
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Balor
recumbent guru

Russia
514 Posts

Posted - 01/06/2017 :  01:15:57  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Mid drives are excellent for suspended bikes - this way you do not gain a lot of unsuspended mass, at the cost greater drive drain wear and tear (in your case - quite literally, heh).
Otherwise hub motor makes much more sense indeed.
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Denman
Starting Member

USA
3 Posts

Posted - 01/17/2017 :  18:54:06  Show Profile  Visit Denman's Homepage  Reply with Quote
I tried the BBS02 for a while on an HPV FS26. Nice unit but for those who pedal and shift not an ideal match.

Also tried a few Direct Drive Hubmotors

I like the MAC Geared Hubmotor best.




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carolina
recumbent guru

USA
602 Posts

Posted - 04/01/2017 :  17:34:18  Show Profile  Visit carolina's Homepage  Reply with Quote
the bafang has softstart tab with your laptop. Katang says 250 is all ya need. Stephane just rode to france and back from cz republic. I know what your talking about with the power banging. Some great programs for bafangs. I have a friend with new waw/bafang with no problems. It has to be set up correctly. Lunacycle.com is good for bafangs.

l need to back off on start up current.

https://www.electricbike.com/ebike-battery-longevity/

Do not buy from : bafangusadirect.com Buy from lunacycle or above vendor.

______________________________

https://penoff.wordpress.com/2016/01/13/e-bike-conversion-software/
penoff from Norway did a great re-write of program.





velosRus.com

Edited by - carolina on 04/05/2017 19:03:02
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carolina
recumbent guru

USA
602 Posts

Posted - 05/04/2017 :  04:00:14  Show Profile  Visit carolina's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Bafang 750 watt for continental usa. My controller went bad, new one on the way. Pretty easy to install. Getting a brake and rohloff shut-off sensor ordered too:

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