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warren
human power expert

USA
6253 Posts

Posted - 02/23/2018 :  08:01:32  Show Profile  Visit warren's Homepage  Reply with Quote
I may have missed this but why is there so much space between the seat back and the rear wheel? Storage? Batteries? Dog seat? Taller riders?

Also you are adding some triangulation to those rear stays, right? Those butt welds will fail eventually.
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Matthew Martin
Starting Member

USA
46 Posts

Posted - 02/23/2018 :  16:02:10  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
The reason that there is so much space is mostly for storage. As I stated long ago I need it to fit my skateboard and book bag, and to do this I had to make the shape of the body longer. I figured that I might as well move the wheel farther back the help with wind stability. The wheel farther back will also allow for larger riders.




Thank you for pointing that out!. I currently can't do anything to triangulate, as I need to get more tubing, so I am open to suggestion, however this is my current solution.


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warren
human power expert

USA
6253 Posts

Posted - 02/25/2018 :  09:13:19  Show Profile  Visit warren's Homepage  Reply with Quote
That should work fine and also provide some passive suspension.
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carolina
recumbent guru

USA
819 Posts

Posted - 02/25/2018 :  09:35:11  Show Profile  Visit carolina's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Can u show frt & rear seat mount. I have used 2 choices. Then one on my lowracer (df / quest velo hardware), and in my velomobiel (WAW/ & Quest hardware). My favorite seat hardware is DF. Df and quest use lightest seat on earth because of their hardware that holds seat. Your building a velomobiel per definition. I have studied velomobiels for 4 years daily. Study Daniel fenn for weight savings.

Some definitions:
go back to definition of velomobile: it provides aerodynamic advantage, weather protection, human powered. (Even though i think a trike with a shell is a trike with a shell). The modern unibody can be your second build.
-
velosRus.com

Edited by - carolina on 02/25/2018 09:40:22
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alevand
human power expert

USA
3199 Posts

Posted - 02/25/2018 :  19:13:49  Show Profile  Visit alevand's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Watch for interferences in the chain line and frame.

C:
Tony Levand
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Matthew Martin
Starting Member

USA
46 Posts

Posted - 02/25/2018 :  20:33:06  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Here are pics of the front mount and rear mount.





The pictures on the previous page shows how the seat it mounted. I am not concerned about weight right now, rather I just want to get a moving bike. I will work on weight later.

And Alevand, I am using chain management pulleys to keep the chain below the frame rather than across the frame.
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Matthew Martin
Starting Member

USA
46 Posts

Posted - 03/02/2018 :  20:32:33  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I rolled down the driveway!

I got the linkage set up using conduit, which I de-galvanized using muriatic acid. This is only a temporary solution and will upgrade later, but should work even when I put the cranks on. I have to order 2 more idlers for the chain management.
The steering tube is simply 2 washers and a bolt though them. This creates a lot of slop. I have bearings which can be pressed in however I cant find the proper 15mm bolt to fit the bore on the bearing anywhere online.



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alevand
human power expert

USA
3199 Posts

Posted - 03/04/2018 :  08:06:11  Show Profile  Visit alevand's Homepage  Reply with Quote
That's progress. Steering looks unrestricted. You'll need landing gear or a kickstand to get in and out of the fairing through the top, or a side door, you wont be able to stand up with the bars that far back. I have used the same ace hardware wheel barrow bearings for steering and tack them in the same way. I split the tube lengthwise and welded it back for a tight fit. I used 4130 tubing for the spindle instead of a solid 15 mm bolt, welded into a T, well more like and arrow head. If you angle the bars down, its more comfortable to ride. You might have some interference with the right brake and pivot, I like to push the brakes as far inboard as possible, so they don't contact the fairing. I have made a second stub just for the pivot. You can run the front brake cable along the linkage. I make the remote pivot a little further outboard than the fork end, as space is tight for turning in the fairing. I've always attached the pivot to the fork crown, because the front of the fairing was lower, you might have trouble seeing the road in front of the bike. Id recommend not using HCL for zinc removal, as a whiff of the fumes will destroy your sense of smell permanently (my experience, I cant smell a thing).

C:
Tony Levand

Edited by - alevand on 03/04/2018 08:12:42
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Matthew Martin
Starting Member

USA
46 Posts

Posted - 03/06/2018 :  17:51:58  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
by unrestricted do you mean no steering limiter? I do plan to implement one later on. Thanks for the advice... I use the muriatic acid with a respirator outside, and don't stick around as soon as I insert my piece.
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Matthew Martin
Starting Member

USA
46 Posts

Posted - 03/31/2018 :  12:59:14  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Well I have done some more work and have made all the main components, like the BB clamp and handle bars. I could have had it ride able but decided to change the design (Shorter).
The BB clap with the Tiagra crankset



The handle bar


Cutting up the frame


New design

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Speedbiker
human power expert

USA
3835 Posts

Posted - 03/31/2018 :  22:44:40  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Good job, Matthew. I love the shorter design. Keep up the great work.
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Matthew Martin
Starting Member

USA
46 Posts

Posted - 04/14/2018 :  19:39:19  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
A lot has happened since the last post...

About three weeks ago I started to work on the new design and I cut the frame and welded the new tube



All was good I the welded in the chain stays and dropouts


Then after some rides down the drive way I noticed quite a bit of flex.. I expected this as I had not added any triangulation yet, however what I did not know was that the flex was actualy tube failing.



After being extremely frustrated I got to work, I managed to salvage the chain stays and dropouts so that the new tube rest insite of the old tube like a jacket.



I then worked on adding some triagulation. I did this in a way that I do not like to do things, which is with out any plans. I simply took a few measurements and decided if it looked good or not.







The results came out great, the frame is stiff , but heavy
mind the chair in the back...I was fixing them for neighbors.









Now I am just working on the pulley mount!
I will re make the steering linkage later with some smaller tubing that is not conduit.

Edited by - Matthew Martin on 04/14/2018 20:39:37
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warren
human power expert

USA
6253 Posts

Posted - 04/15/2018 :  09:25:10  Show Profile  Visit warren's Homepage  Reply with Quote
That's much better! Is there any way you can bring the front wheel closer to the cranks without having your feet hit it?
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Matthew Martin
Starting Member

USA
46 Posts

Posted - 04/15/2018 :  12:48:59  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I could right now, but I want the cranks to have room to slide up for taller riders, so when I grow I wont have to remake the frame.



the shapes represent the amount of space that a foot needs when pedaling. I don't want much heel overlap when the BB is in the farthest position.
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Matthew Martin
Starting Member

USA
46 Posts

Posted - 04/20/2018 :  21:06:45  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Since the last post, it was suggested that I place another tube behind the seat. I worked through a couple of iterations before settling on this one.





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teubner
recumbent guru

800 Posts

Posted - 05/20/2018 :  01:00:11  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Other than BM, I've been away from this forum for years, and landed on this thread by accident while searching for a Rotator Pursuit. I feel like I've been down some of the roads discussed here. Gave up on a streamlined 2-wheeler after getting blown over in a race.

Matthew, remember that it isn't trivial to make a compound curve that is optically clear. Your shell design should allow for a windshield formed from a simple curve of a flat piece.

My personal opinion is that you don't want a windshield on a daily commuter. It will get dirty in the parking lot and you won't have a good way to clear the dirt without scratching it. And I have been unable to keep a windshield from fogging, but I live in a much colder climate.

Having said all that, you are impressive. Keep on...
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