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Jerry
human power supergeek

USA
1277 Posts

Posted - 12/29/2017 :  08:37:04  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Ha ha. It is a deal. I will wave every time you pass me, which will be often! Ha. Hope to see you in Nashville.
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LunaticFringe
recumbent enthusiast

USA
495 Posts

Posted - 12/29/2017 :  10:27:20  Show Profile  Visit LunaticFringe's Homepage  Reply with Quote
You guys are funny. Hah!

These pics show an update from yesterday.

I created a fiberglass sheet on a board so that I can cut the sheet into panels for storage areas in the tail section of the bike. The openings in the seat wings will be pretty large for storage at either side, plus there will be storage on/in the rear rack and there will be a hook on the back of the seat to hang a drinking bladder.

It will be pretty easy to cut up the sheet into storage box panels, then fiberglass the corners together. They will be a single layer of 1 1/2 oz. matt.



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I might lay up fiberglass from one of my old tail fairing molds and see if parts of it make sense to use as a fiberglass 'cap' to the tail fairing, especially directly behind the shoulder area. On second thought, maybe not. Hah!



Jeff Bales
Tucson, AZ

Edited by - LunaticFringe on 12/29/2017 14:25:28
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Speedbiker
human power expert

USA
3835 Posts

Posted - 12/30/2017 :  04:31:01  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
That's just cheating!
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LunaticFringe
recumbent enthusiast

USA
495 Posts

Posted - 01/02/2018 :  18:05:51  Show Profile  Visit LunaticFringe's Homepage  Reply with Quote
I now have both seat wings and flat panels (for constructing the storage box shapes) laminated. ;)

The opening for the storage bins seems very adequate, allowing for some bulky items to be stored in the box shapes that are to come (hidden behind the tail fairing fabric and spars).



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I'm really pleased with how strong and light the seat wing spars are. Very rigid already, as bolted to the seat, and super tough after other spars connect.

Jeff Bales
Tucson, AZ
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LunaticFringe
recumbent enthusiast

USA
495 Posts

Posted - 01/03/2018 :  16:07:40  Show Profile  Visit LunaticFringe's Homepage  Reply with Quote
I scrounged through a small pile of molds from back when I had a fiberglass factory. Thank God for the internet... I hire others to make my products and I sell through 35 websites now... no more itching everyday for years!

I still have a roughed in head fairing from Lunatic Fringe 2.0 that is already custom designed to fit a Flevo-Roof. It is a bit heavy, and too wide for this application, but THAT is easy to fix! I'll chop it to narrow by about 2 1/2" and sand a layer of fiberglass from the inside.

Interestingly, I had flanged it to fit onto the outside of the previous streetliner and those flanges will make great places for the fabric to adhere to prior to stretching over the other armatures. ;) We'll see if they are at the correct angles later.




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I'll need to move the fairing back away from my head about 2" as compared to this photo (helmet clearance).



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Jeff Bales
Tucson, AZ

Edited by - LunaticFringe on 01/03/2018 18:53:03
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Jerry
human power supergeek

USA
1277 Posts

Posted - 01/03/2018 :  17:15:17  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I thought that was part of your head! Lol. Get it done and come to Nashville with it.

I got my two nose cones today. One has a little damage from customs, two dents and spider cracks. No biggie though, I can fix it.
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LunaticFringe
recumbent enthusiast

USA
495 Posts

Posted - 01/03/2018 :  19:18:07  Show Profile  Visit LunaticFringe's Homepage  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Jerry

I thought that was part of your head! Lol. Get it done and come to Nashville with it.

I got my two nose cones today. One has a little damage from customs, two dents and spider cracks. No biggie though, I can fix it.



Hah!

That is so cool that your nose fairings showed up today. Wahoo!!!

Jeff Bales
Tucson, AZ
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Jerry
human power supergeek

USA
1277 Posts

Posted - 01/03/2018 :  19:29:05  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Yes, and it is the first time in a month I am not sick, the sun was out, and it was in the 40's. I hope to have them attached to the corovelo and Baron in the next few days. My fluid trainer came today also. I hate riding indoors, but with my respiratory system, I can't ride in the cold air anymore.
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LunaticFringe
recumbent enthusiast

USA
495 Posts

Posted - 01/03/2018 :  20:56:51  Show Profile  Visit LunaticFringe's Homepage  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Jerry

I hate riding indoors, but with my respiratory system, I can't ride in the cold air anymore.



That would be cool to see the pics of your mods with the nose fairings.

I understand about riding in cold weather! With MY lungs, if I ride in really cold weather, it'll turn to pneumonia pretty quickly. That is the number one reason why I moved away from St. Louis to Tucson, AZ, 30 years ago. ;)

Jeff

Edited by - LunaticFringe on 01/03/2018 21:00:32
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Jerry
human power supergeek

USA
1277 Posts

Posted - 01/03/2018 :  21:16:07  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Ha, I worked in St. Louis for close to 40 years. I lived in Jefferson City 9 years and 30+ in Franklin County between Union and Washington, MO. Now live 4.9 miles from my 3 grand kids, North Richland Hills, TX. Record breaking winter temps since I have been down here, close to 2 years. I think the weather followed me.

My niece lives about 20 miles south of you in Sahuarita, AZ. I'll have to come by and visit you when we go to the Grand Canyon. Be careful and don't feed us, we might stay! Lol.
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alevand
human power expert

USA
3208 Posts

Posted - 01/05/2018 :  15:41:10  Show Profile  Visit alevand's Homepage  Reply with Quote
https://www.eurekalert.org/pub_releases/2018-01/uoih-efd010518.php

quote:
Originally posted by Jerry

Be very careful on Keto if you have a history of kidney disease and liver damage like me. You need carbs for good organ life. Not sugar, but complex carbs.



C:
Tony Levand
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Balor
recumbent guru

Russia
531 Posts

Posted - 01/06/2018 :  04:34:07  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by alevand

https://www.eurekalert.org/pub_releases/2018-01/uoih-efd010518.php

quote:
Originally posted by Jerry

Be very careful on Keto if you have a history of kidney disease and liver damage like me. You need carbs for good organ life. Not sugar, but complex carbs.



C:
Tony Levand



It only applies to type-one diabetic patients with inability to process glucose at all, hence all your heart will ever see is fats and some ketones (that are predominately used by the brain anyway).
If you are living on a keto diet, unless ALL you eat is fat (which is not recommended by anyone), about half of your ingested proteins would be converted to glucose by neoglucogenesis anyway (that is why it is not recommended to eat too much protein, it can kick you out of keto).

Also, if you are an active person on keto diet, you can (and actually should) carb up right before and during high-intensity excersize (in moderation, of course) - that will allow your heart mitochondria to use lactate and glucose and prevent this kind of pathological adaptation.

Btw, in full version of the article the mechanism of this maladaptation is explained by oxidative stress (overabundance of reactive oxygen species) and a genetic manipulation of natural antioxidant defences allows for preservation of "healthy" mitochondria even in fat-saturated environment... I wonder if 'natural' humans can use some sort of antioxidant supplements to counter that, too.

Edited by - Balor on 01/06/2018 07:39:37
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LunaticFringe
recumbent enthusiast

USA
495 Posts

Posted - 01/06/2018 :  18:49:53  Show Profile  Visit LunaticFringe's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Today's update: It's got an actual shape. Hah! I started off by clamping some PVC to serve as a target at the rear. It won't be left in place, but I need a rigid structure to work with.



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The front ends of the spars will be grafted onto the *outside* of the front fairing since my feet can barely skip on the inner surface of the fairing if I have my feet twisted a bit. I've got really wide feet, too!



I started off with the rear tip positioned so that the streetliner would be 9' in length (my last one was 10' long). By the time that I adjusted the bottom spars from front to back, the actual total length got shortened to exactly 100 inches. That length allowed the minimum comfortable distance for my legs to come out and support the bike, plus intersect the bottom of the seat wings, then go to a decently tapered rear.



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It was fun to stick the head fairing on there for this picture, just to be able to start visualizing what it will look like. The spars along the side will have the PVC pipes removed after they have been fiberglassed. I'll cut the 'glass open to pull the pipes out, then glue them back into place to close and laminate with another layer of 'glass.



This is getting to be FUN!

Jeff Bales
Tucson, AZ

Edited by - LunaticFringe on 01/06/2018 19:59:47
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LunaticFringe
recumbent enthusiast

USA
495 Posts

Posted - 01/09/2018 :  19:51:33  Show Profile  Visit LunaticFringe's Homepage  Reply with Quote
So far, I have been able to achieve decent symmetry. Wahoo!

I altered the rear jig so that it would not interfere with the location of the mid spar (half way up the seat). I will remove the rear jig after the rear spar sections have been laminated with fiberglass.



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The mid spar that is half way up the seat in 27" above the ground. I can step over that to get into the streetliner. There will be hinged doors that close the gap between the upper seat section and the bulkhead that will serve as the 'dashboard' area.



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A quick walk-around video: https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=mT6CeoEHSDE

Tomorrow, I'll be able to sit in the seat to check for knee clearance at the sides and top, then begin the work to add the upper spars.

'So much fun today!

Jeff Bales
Tucson, AZ

Edited by - LunaticFringe on 01/09/2018 20:08:33
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LunaticFringe
recumbent enthusiast

USA
495 Posts

Posted - 01/10/2018 :  09:37:18  Show Profile  Visit LunaticFringe's Homepage  Reply with Quote
I was able to sit in LunaticFringe 3.0 last night and found that I can narrow the mid-spars by about 1 1/2”. The time to do that is today. =)

Jeff “Getting Skinny” Bales
Tucson, AZ

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LunaticFringe
recumbent enthusiast

USA
495 Posts

Posted - 01/12/2018 :  18:40:09  Show Profile  Visit LunaticFringe's Homepage  Reply with Quote
I had a small amount of time to spend on the 'liner, so I added the upper spar. Yet to come, about 4 more spars, bulkhead, storage boxes, conversion of mid-section at upper spars into doors, and head fairing.

Oh yeah, then put the skin on the sucker and paint it!



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Bring on the fun!

Jeff Bales
Tucson, AZ

Edited by - LunaticFringe on 01/12/2018 18:50:24
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Terry
Starting Member

Canada
49 Posts

Posted - 01/12/2018 :  20:12:35  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Cool project! Not sure I understand how you get the pvc pipes out of the glass??and still keep the shape.
Are you using fibreglass mat? And polyester resin?
Thanks
Terry
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LunaticFringe
recumbent enthusiast

USA
495 Posts

Posted - 01/13/2018 :  18:01:26  Show Profile  Visit LunaticFringe's Homepage  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Terry

Cool project! Not sure I understand how you get the pvc pipes out of the glass??and still keep the shape.
Are you using fibreglass mat? And polyester resin?
Thanks
Terry



Yep! Isophthalic polyester resin and 1 1/2 oz mat fiberglass. The resin doesn't bond well to PVC pipe unless you sand it, etc. In addition to that, I hit it with paste mold release prior to putting under the fiberglass. In one of the pics above, you'll see how I cut down the middle of each side to release a PVC pipe. It fell right out. After I fiberglass all of the pipes, I'll do the same to them and yank out the PVC, just to lighten it up. I'll use drops of cyanoacrylate glue to resecure the removed fiberglass into place then put another layer of fiberglass over that to reunite. The PVC will mostly go back to its original shape after I remove it. The fiberglass will retain its curved shape.

Jeff Bales
Tucson, AZ

Edited by - LunaticFringe on 01/13/2018 18:04:23
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LunaticFringe
recumbent enthusiast

USA
495 Posts

Posted - 01/13/2018 :  21:03:25  Show Profile  Visit LunaticFringe's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Not much work on it today. Just a l'il fiberglass on the upper spar and an adjustment to the lowest spar at the right side seat connection to adjust a bit for better alignment.

The next step will be dirty work, fiberglassing over the current spars to that I can add the last 4 spars. It will be tougher to 'glass the spars with the final four in place, so I may as well do the current ones while more accessible.

See that triangular opening at the top o' the tail? That will be where the sculpted fiberglass head fairing will press fit into, allowing access to huge amounts of storage. It will be sculpted from foam, using the front section of the old head fairing (already fits the Flevo roof). There will be some Velcro straps to secure from the inside. I think that I'll be able to carry enough gear to go on a biking/camping trip with this sucker... like RAGBRAI!

Made this way, with LOTS of storage, this streetliner will be more like a 2-wheeled velomobile.

Hopefully, if its engine still has the oomph that I think it does, it will be faster than a standard velomobile and faster than a few of the slower streamliners. That remains to be seen!

I'm not in Geezer-mode yet! I'll be happy to make it there, though. ;)



Jeff Bales
Tucson, AZ

Edited by - LunaticFringe on 01/13/2018 21:11:37
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LunaticFringe
recumbent enthusiast

USA
495 Posts

Posted - 01/26/2018 :  18:14:42  Show Profile  Visit LunaticFringe's Homepage  Reply with Quote
I finally got some time to glass over the spars. I may begin to remove the PVC pipes tomorrow and should be able to remove the tail jig that is clamped to the luggage rack.

I tend to over build things, so I think that I'm going to NOT add the 4 more spars that go front to back. There will be the vertical spars that are not yet placed. If I need to add them later, I can remove the fabric, add them, and re-cover everything. We'll see! There are 2 levels of shrink that the fabric can do, one at 250 degrees and the other at 350. I'll shoot for the lesser amount of shrink.



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Everybody have a great weekend!

Jeff

Edited by - LunaticFringe on 01/26/2018 18:19:44
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Jerry
human power supergeek

USA
1277 Posts

Posted - 01/27/2018 :  08:59:46  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Looking good Jeff. Can hardly wait to see the completed shell. One question though, wouldn't it be more aero with another spar at the corner of the seat? If I am looking at it right, seems like it would create a flat spot without something there. Maybe not. Maybe instead of on the outside edge, run it so the outside of spar is flush with outside of seat edge. Or cut off the 90 degree seat edge and make more like 135 degrees or rounder. Might be I am just looking at it wrong.

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LunaticFringe
recumbent enthusiast

USA
495 Posts

Posted - 01/28/2018 :  08:54:15  Show Profile  Visit LunaticFringe's Homepage  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Jerry

Looking good Jeff. Can hardly wait to see the completed shell. One question though, wouldn't it be more aero with another spar at the corner of the seat? If I am looking at it right, seems like it would create a flat spot without something there. Maybe not. Maybe instead of on the outside edge, run it so the outside of spar is flush with outside of seat edge. Or cut off the 90 degree seat edge and make more like 135 degrees or rounder. Might be I am just looking at it wrong.





You are correct! There will be a minor kink at that spot. I've been struggling with the issue in my cranium.

I have a new fiancee that is moving into my humble abode with her 2 kids and I'm freaking out on my schedule. Hah! I still need to build some fencing to handle their huge pooch, and build a 10' x 16' storage shed to hold everyone's junk. I'll be able to make mods to this bike build next winter pretty easily. All I'll need to do is remove the fabric, make changes, then apply fresh fabric, which is really inexpensive in the grand scheme of things. I'm in such a rush now that I'm going to leave the PVC pipes in place (except for the rear vertical). I'll pay a few pound weight penalty for that. At least it will get me to being able to ride and sooner and keep my sanity as I go through the other preparation madness that I'm about to undertake. Hah! I can't WAIT to get me some streetliner therapy, even if it is at 80% capability until I get the chance for future mods. ;)

Jeff
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LunaticFringe
recumbent enthusiast

USA
495 Posts

Posted - 01/28/2018 :  09:05:47  Show Profile  Visit LunaticFringe's Homepage  Reply with Quote
More sanding and then the vertical spars will go in. Saturday, I added the 'dash board' spar. I'll be able to mount things underneath it like phone and speedo, etc. I removed the rear jig and added a cross-spar to eliminate a minor amount of wiggle in the tail. It will be clamped to the rear-most metal on the luggage rack. All of a sudden, this thing is nice and rigid as I move it around. The vertical spars will really lock things up! The vertical spar that I create next will go from where the dash-spar mounts downward to the spar underneath, forming the front edge of the door (after cutting, etc.).



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No work on the bicycle today... gotta go ride the Harley with my buds! I haven't ridden it on a longer ride in a while. I need the mental break. Aaaaaaaaaaah...

If this type of streetliner fairing works well, I'll probably use the technique to streamline my recumbent motorcycle. ;)



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Jeff in Tucson
(Currently itchy from sanding fiberglass... hah!)

Edited by - LunaticFringe on 01/28/2018 09:25:46
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Jerry
human power supergeek

USA
1277 Posts

Posted - 01/29/2018 :  07:41:32  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Hey Jeff, how about a vertical spar on each side of the seat corner and use just PVC with no glass for the horizontal. I think that would help make a smooth transition. Good luck with the new family members.
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Garrie L Hill
human power supergeek

USA
1744 Posts

Posted - 01/29/2018 :  08:17:04  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Itchy from sanding glass or carbon? Old Trick from an Old Hand:

1) Whenever possible, use wet-or-dry sanding paper and keep a spray bottle of water at hand. By keeping the sanding area damp, all of the dust is kept as a slurry which can be wiped off upon completion. Nothing floats into the air to get on you skin ( or in your lungs!! Use a particulate mask as well)
Added Benefit The water and glass/carbon slurry acts as a fine lapping compound as you sand, yielding a much more polished surface.

2) Before sanding/grinding/sawing/cutting any of the composites, rub talcum powder over all exposed skin. Including face areas! Floating micro particles of glass/carbon that settle on skin will stand on end in your skin pores. Each time you brush one of these upright fibers, it triggers an itch. Pre prepping your skin with talcum powder fills the pores and excludes the offending particulates.
Added Benefit When you are done sanding, you will smell nice...... not like a horse that has been "Rode hard and put away wet" ;-)

Garrie "carbon based lifeform" Hill
HPRA Co-Dictator of the East
for pics of some of my time and money sucking projects
http://s58.photobucket.com/albums/g277/cfbb/
and videos
http://vimeo.com/5513519


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