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 WTK: BikeE Mods?
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Azrial
Starting Member

USA
5 Posts

Posted - 07/02/2010 :  09:28:01  Show Profile  Visit Azrial's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Hello, First Post! I have a BikeE that I have had for sometime but have only recently started riding. I like it, but I want more speed. While doing research I found pictures of Steve Spencer's highly modified BikeE at the Tucker 100 HPRA HPV Race and a picture of Steve Golber racing down in Florida. I like the idea of the 26" rear wheel and would not mind a 20" front with a new fork as well!



While I am no bike mechanic, I am a pretty skilled artificer and build Saiga12, AKs and other items and feel up to the task. So, anyone have more info on these mods?

Send money, guns and lawyers Dad, I am in trouble again...

Jeff Wills
human power supergeek

USA
1268 Posts

Posted - 07/02/2010 :  21:52:43  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Azrial


While I am no bike mechanic, I am a pretty skilled artificer and build Saiga12, AKs and other items and feel up to the task. So, anyone have more info on these mods?



While modifying a BikeE is a neat idea, it's probably cheaper just to buy a Easy Racers Javelin and get all of your modifications done for you: http://www.easyracers.com/javelin.html

__________________
Jeff Wills
All my bikes:
http://home.comcast.net/~jeff_wills/Gallery/index.html
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Azrial
Starting Member

USA
5 Posts

Posted - 07/02/2010 :  23:39:51  Show Profile  Visit Azrial's Homepage  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Jeff Wills
While modifying a BikeE is a neat idea, it's probably cheaper just to buy a Easy Racers Javelin and get all of your modifications done for you: http://www.easyracers.com/javelin.html

Hey Jeff, Thanks for the reply, however I am way more interested in this as a project, then I am in $1200 solution. Kind of why I put my request here in the "Technical / Bike Building" section...

I can see that the lower rear wheel frame assembly has been turned over and remounted and that they utilized a 26" rear wheel. I would imagine that the brake mounts and routing of the cables would be a little problematic, and would require some brazing, but is certainly do-able.

I have found a reference to a part made by Tamer called a Headset Sizer. This adapter allows a smaller steerer tube diameter to a larger frame head tube. This would allow me to use a 20" fork and wheel. I would then guess that I must sort out the Rake and Trail, some tweaking and I should be good. But I am well aware, the devil is in the details.

Any input on this project? It would be gratefully appreciated!

Send money, guns and lawyers Dad, I am in trouble again...
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alevand
human power expert

USA
2732 Posts

Posted - 07/03/2010 :  05:43:45  Show Profile  Visit alevand's Homepage  Reply with Quote
You might be able to rivet the rear stays on using some square tubing and gusset plates. I don't like this design, but here a pic of rivets:




C:
Tony Levand

Edited by - alevand on 07/03/2010 05:44:18
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warren
human power expert

USA
5965 Posts

Posted - 07/03/2010 :  05:49:06  Show Profile  Visit warren's Homepage  Reply with Quote
I think most of the stuff they did on that bike was bolt on. I would think that the BikeE front for would use a standard 20" steerer, so you should be able to use a standard 20" fork. I don't remember if Steve had any issue with fork flop, but I'm sure it was fine once he was rolling. The other thing you will need is a new seat.

-Warren.
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Tom Schneider
New Member

98 Posts

Posted - 07/03/2010 :  08:28:29  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
On my LowE I drilled out the rivets, then pivoted the chainstays on the rear top rivet holes using 5/16 or 3/8 inch (forgot which fit) button head SST allen screws to keep the chainstays in line. Had no problem with the button head screws and Locktite. The fork is a 1 1/4" steeer so you will need reducers for a 20" fork. I have approximately 4 1/2' trail with a 355mm front wheel and a 406mm rear. Very stable at high speeds, floppy at low. You will have less with the larger rear wheel. I used a HP one piece seat at 23.5 degrees (wheel would rub if I went lower).


http://www.mninter.net/~tjschne/LowE1.jpg

Edited by - Tom Schneider on 07/03/2010 08:35:10
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Azrial
Starting Member

USA
5 Posts

Posted - 07/03/2010 :  15:29:43  Show Profile  Visit Azrial's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Thanks for the reply gentlemen! These are the kind of details I am looking for!

Warren, do you know if Spencer tried adding any rake to his fork conversion? I tried emailing him at the address that he had posted here

Tom, I have studied the picture of your bike, I have noticed that used only two bolts per side to mount the rear sub-frame? Why was this? This would somewhat concern me, I am 604 and 220 LBs.

What did you use for the seat, is it custom, or an adaption? Why did it HAVE to be changed?

Did you have to fabricate any parts for the brake or gear mounts or cables?

Even though rivets and screws load differently I too planned to cap head screws as I felt that this rivet might be difficult to replace.

The last question is, (I think!) is that a 24 or a 26 rear wheel?


Send money, guns and lawyers Dad, I am in trouble again...
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Azrial
Starting Member

USA
5 Posts

Posted - 07/03/2010 :  20:30:07  Show Profile  Visit Azrial's Homepage  Reply with Quote
alevand, I did not mean to slight you. That is a serious number of small pop rivets in your picture! I would need to use much larger rivets in this application, or cap head screws, as suggested. I would need to hammer them, but I think that here my AK building experience might help me out. :D

Send money, guns and lawyers Dad, I am in trouble again...
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alevand
human power expert

USA
2732 Posts

Posted - 07/04/2010 :  04:57:01  Show Profile  Visit alevand's Homepage  Reply with Quote
They are 1/4 inch blind pop rivets. 1300 lb shear strength for aluminum and 2700 lb for steel rivets.

C:
Tony Levand
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Tom Schneider
New Member

98 Posts

Posted - 07/04/2010 :  05:45:39  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Azrial,
There are 4 bolts per side, they just don't show well. I changed the seat for a more aero and more comfortable ride. I used the original BikeE internal roller, mounted on two of the button screws, for the cables. The length of the roller required modification and I did use thin nuts on all 8 button screws.

Tom
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Azrial
Starting Member

USA
5 Posts

Posted - 07/12/2010 :  06:24:18  Show Profile  Visit Azrial's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Thanks guys for all the responses, I am looking for parts now! I think that I have located most over the weekend, however I am still looking for a good 20" fork that will work with the long 7" x 1 1/8" steerer tube. (After the adapter)

Tom, how much did you have to bob off the rear of the frame? Sorry for all the questions and thanks again!

Send money, guns and lawyers Dad, I am in trouble again...
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Runningpony
Starting Member

USA
1 Posts

Posted - 07/09/2015 :  15:07:16  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Azrial, did you complete this project? I just picked up a BikeE CT frame for $1 and I saw your thread regarding a BikeE. All it has on it is a bottom bracket. Seemed like a fun project, I was thinking about the same kind of build, with a 24" or 26" wheel and 20" front. I want to use all conventional parts, maybe fab a seat similar to my SWB recumbent that i like. Did you complete the project, and do have any advice? I have a fair amout of automotive and bike repair skills.
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