Goliath Top Fairing
Goliath Top Fairing

A project by Larry Lem

Concept Frame Bottom Fairing Top Fairing Cart-n-Rack Tail Battle Mountain
The Beluga used a Garrie Hill canopy, so when making the Beluga plug, I left the area in which the canopy would sit unfinished. For Goliath, I wanted to use a small, flat piece of clear, polystyrene plastic for a windshield. Flat plastic can be easily bent in two dimensions, and a 3-D bend for such a small piece isn't really necessary. 
I filled in the canopy section of the Beluga top plug with plywood, 
foam chunks. 
and Bondo. 
Typical Bondo application, x's are high spots, circles are low spots. 
Bondo done 
I took the Beluga top female mold, cut out the area for the new canopy section, placed the female mold on the plug, and added fiberglass over the canopy area. I ran into difficulty pulling the mold off of the plug and resorted to my tried-and-true hand-winch. 
Since the nose came off first, it torqued the plug and cracked it. I was a little sad, but I had good female mold now. 
Gaps in the new female mold canopy joint 
Filling in gaps with Bondo 
A pair of Beluga tops with nice, round canopy areas, and lots of protective Kevlar 
Tails cut off of the tops. Now to make a top middle section that fairs the front and rear together. At this point, I was still planning on a 3-piece top. 
To fit the fairing tops to the bottoms, I added pockets to the tops and tabs to the bottom. When the tops would be placed on the ground, there would be no tabs to bend or break. 
2-part foam mess 
The Goliath canopy would taper at the rear, so I cut off the rear canopy area and reattached it a little lower to serve as a base for more foam. 
Top view 
Adding Bondo 
 Bondo done
As I already used a bunch of fiberglass and Kevlar on the tops, I still wanted to use them. So I made a female mold of the top center section. This was a bad idea as I'd have two more joints that would need to match (front top to center top, and center top to rear top). 
Top center female mold done 
Top center fairing 
Rather than make a 3-part top, I decided to cut the center in two and bond one piece to the front and the other to the rear. Then I'd only have one center mating joint to worry about. 
Removing Bondo and foam from tops 
Still removing Bondo and foam 
The Bondo looked like tiles 
To mount the center pieces to the tops, I trimmed the centers to have 4 inches of overlap with the tops. I put the front center piece into the female center mold, put down some fiberglass strips and epoxy, then layed the front top on that and clamped them together. 
Rear center to rear top joint 
Same from below 
Adding fiberglass instead of Bondo to smooth the transition - front top 
Rear top 
Because the top was two pieces, it could be pretty floppy in the middle. I decided to make a center hoop to give the ends of the tops something to sit on. 
Center hoop with brackets mounted to frame. Not a robust mounting scheme. The mounts broke loose when we fell at Battle Mountain and we had to reattach them. The hoop should have been integral with the bottom fairing.

Next: Cart-n-Rack

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