Reg Rodero HPV fairing projects
Reg Rodaro builds the Cuda-W fairing - Part 3 
Mold and Preparation Fairing Layup Tub Bike Construction Canopy & fairings
To finish the tub bike, Reg will join the fairing halves, construct the bulkheads, and reinforce the high stress areas.
"This is called the Tick Stick method. It's popular with boat builders to quickly and accurately establish a pattern for bulkheads in a boat. Usually there will be a stack of 2 inch wide strips of door skin ripped up for the stick part. In this case, because of the smaller scale I thought the Popsicle sticks and tongue depressors added a nice personal touch. I acquired the Popsicle sticks by actually consuming the Popsicles but the system works equally well if the sticks are purchased in bulk."
This picture shows the front bulkhead tick sticks, then the vertical tape line, which shows where the rear support hoop for the front suspension is located. The angled stick is the proposed location of the rear bulkhead. Since the space between the two bulkheads will be just an inch longer than my X-seam, I'll be using the rear bulkhead for my seatback. This should save weight too!
"To make things easier to see I should explain that the shell is sitting in the mold to keep it stable and the mold flange is visible and distracting. Pretend it is not there. I am using a 700 c front wheel with a 1.35 tire. I cut out just enough to let half of the tire rest on the shell. With the wheel in this position there is 5/8 inch clearance between the rear tire side wall and the inside of the fairing."
"I constructed an adjustable rear wheel mount for one side to locate the rear wheel position. First I positioned the wheel in the center of the fairing about 5 inches from the back. I marked a piece of masking tape in 1 inch increments but you can't see the numbers. Then I measured 4 inches from the tire down to the bottom edge of the shell and cut out the bottom wheel opening."
This picture shows that there is about one inch clearance between the bulkhead and the rear wheel. To install and remove the wheel, there will be a slot in the bulkhead . An inspection cover will go over the slot to preserve rigidity. Maybe the inspection cover will serve as part of the seat back.
"I set the front bulkhead pattern in place and measured back to the seat back 48 inches with 1 inch to spare. That brings the seat front edge close to the hoop centerline. I am still imagining a possible rod just in front of your crotch for support. Maybe the hoop will be stiff enough."
Brackets will be constructed to allow the 700C "front" wheel to be easily installed and removed from the fairing behind the seat. These brackets will be attached to a carbon fiber mounting plate which will integrate with the structural rib in the side of the fairing.
In the photos below, Reg uses the tick-sticks from above, then lofting techniques to transfer the pattern for the front bulkhead.
Reg is making the rear bulkhead of 1/4 inch mahogany plywood to mount the "T" nuts for the dropout attachment. This will provide a stable base so that the rear axle mounts will stay accurately in place during the construction process. He will cover the part of wheel mount base that will remain in the fairing with Carbon Fiber. These pictures show the template that will be used to make the bulkheads to mount the rear wheel.
The inner part where the wheel will go can be easily cut out after the 2 sides are permanently joined together. This will ensure proper alignment.  He drilled a series of perforations along the removable part to facilitate that later task. There will be just barely enough room in the fairing to operate the quick release skewer!
Reg vacuumed bagged the front bulkhead, which weighed 0.5 lbs, the large rear seat bulkhead (1.3 lbs) and the rear wheel mount. The center of the wheel mount bulkhead will be cut away after it is installed and the halves of the fairing shell are bonded together.

The bulkheads are all trimmed and ready to be glassed in. Reg will hot glue them in place to position them and check the fit but once again he has run out of resin.
Here, the center structural hoop is vacuumed into a shell half. 

The half shells now weigh 10.1 lbs each, so the hoops added just over a pound to each side.

Reg has made the reinforced canopy, which will provide crash protection. He used 2 layers of twill 
with one layer of Kevlar over the head area. Also he lapped the cloth so there are 4 layers across the top and up the back. It is about the same weight as the plastic. The Garrie Hill Varna canopy worked out as a good mold. It's quite stiff in the Kevlar area as that has 3 layers plus the compound curve.
Reg has now completed all the parts he needs to make, and will be putting it all together soon. 
"Here are some shots of the front bulkhead. Notice the access hole. Also there are a set of 6 inch wide T nuts which I had installed along with the 8 inch wide set you requested." 

"All holes will accept 1/4 20 screws easily by finger pressure so installation of the drive should be possible once the front wheel hole is cut." 

"I will need to cut the front wheel hole in order to glass the other half of the bulkheads. 

The all black carbon seems to challenge the camera settings..." 

"I have installed a 2 inch 3mm Divinicell border around the rider access panel. This leaves the structural pieces alone and provides a light stiffened area to cut the opening into." 

"I plan to cut down the center of the 2 inch strip once the halves are bonded together."

"The rear wheel bulkhead is glassed to one side. The other side will have to be glassed through the seat back and up through the rear wheel hole before I can cut away the center of the bulkhead."

"The next step is to glass the halves together!"
"Due to the cold weather I had some problems with the viscosity of the resin when I did the canopy. I had to mix the resin over the heater to get it loose
enough to wet out the cloth. The small oven worked for the canopy but I needed to do something different for the fairing. This past week I constructed a large booth that I can heat to 100 degrees in a few minutes. This will make joining the halves together at 70 degrees comfortable and then I can crank the temp up for a good cure."

"We just replaced the furnace in the house so I saved the old one for the fan assembly. The air handler is very powerful so I plan to connect it to
the booth so I can spray gelcoat on the next Velomobile project. I think I have breathed more
fumes than I need to." 

"I will put the core in the canopy area on the other half next week." 

I put a few layers of 1 inch glass strips between the flanged areas. I am waiting for it to cure so I can grind away the flanges and glass in the rest. I did the bottom of the fairing first. Things seem to be going well. I wasn't sure if the rear wheel would go through the cockpit opening but there is plenty of room."
"You can see the slot for the rear wheel. It is too small to get my hand through to glass in the bulkheads so I think I will just tape it shut for now and continue glassing up the outside seam. The sequence for the internal glassing will need to be deferred until the features are done."
Rear wheel fairing, front wheel fairing and canopy notes:
  • "The front wheel fairing design is still incomplete but the shape should be a separate issue to allow me to construct it and take a mold off it, so here is the plan: I will make some large wheel fairings out of cardboard and tape, install them on the waxed fairing and then pour some 2 part foam in place. After removing the cardboard I can sculpt the rough shapes to what you want and bring them to a finish, then I will take molds from them so the features can be made separately and installed or removed from the main fairing. This will allow me to cut larger openings for the wheels and access for glassing the interior will be possible as well as access for your drive assembly and other bits."
  • "The Kevlar canopy should also be attached to the fairing before I cut the main canopy opening. I would like to take a mold of this feature also. These 3 features should be useful to other builders in the future and help reduce some of the more time consuming parts of their projects."
  • "I have some nice profile pictures of the wheel fairings but will need you to give me some cross sections of the shapes and any hard numbers you have for their location." 

"I still have the seam to work on and to remove the flange tabs and so on. I will have to complete my spray booth duct work before I can do the polyester mold work. So there is lots to do. That makes me happy."

"The fairing is now one piece. There are 3 layers of glass on the seam about an inch wide. I will mix up some micro balloons and resin to get a final finish. The interior will get a carbon fiber back up about 5 inches wide to give a structural spine to the shell."



Here's a scale drawing of the completed fairing, showing the wheel fairings from both side and bottom views.

Warren has started work on the front subframe.


The Cuda V3 "Skunk"...
"Yesterday was in the mid 60's F, so I took the opportunity to mix up some epoxy bog for the center seam. With the high temperature outside I got the curing booth up to 120 F for a nice hard cure. Because the bulkhead joins are secondary bonds I will wait for another mild day to make them. By nature the secondary bonds are not as strong as the shells, which are already cured. It is important to give the areas to be bonded a good fresh sanding. Before then I can still complete the finish work and cut the openings."

More Soon...


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